Esmaspäev, 11. mai 2015

Oversized kudumid/Oversized knits

See postitus on juba hulk aega plaanis. Sain materjali kogutud, vesteldud mitme kudujaga, vaadatud pilte. Miks selline teema? Sellepärast, et sain aru, et mulle oversized riided ei sobi. Siis tekkis tahtmine mõista, miks nii. Olen korduvalt kirjutanud, et minu jaoks on alati oluline n-ö diagnoos ja seletus. Jutt tuleb üsna pikk, varuge kannatust. Kõik pildid on internetist (v.a. minu sinise sviitri pilt).
This post has been on my mind for a while. I have collected material, talked to several knitters, examined pictures. Why this topic? Because I realized that oversized clothes do not agree with me. Then it felt like getting to the bottom of it, why so. I have repeatedly written that for me it is crucial to diagnose, so to say, and to find an explanation. This is a long story, so please bear with me. All pictures are from internet (except for the pic of my blue sweater).

Stiil tuleb seest. Kes ma olen, mida tahan enda kohta öelda (või mida varjata, ütlemata jätta jms). Teine küsimus, kas soovitud mulje on saavutatud, s. o. kas minu "koodi" mõistetakse ikka nii, nagu ise seda plaanisin. Näiteks, keegi tahab jätta endast soliidse mulje, kuid mõne valearvestuse tõttu ja teatud välimuse parameetrite tõttu on üldmulje "igav". Kirjutan jutumärkides, sest riideese või kudum ei ole igav iseenesest, vaid konkreetses kontekstis (vt siin).
Style comes from within. Who I am, what I want to say about myself (or to conceal, to understate, for that matter). Another question is, whether one succeeds in conveying the wished message, that is, whether my "code" is understood in the way I meant. For instance, one wants to give an impression of a serious, respectable person but due to some miscalculations and some parametres of one's apperance the general impression is "borring". I am writing this in quotation marks because a garment or a knit is not borring in and by itself but under specific circumstances (see here).


Oversized tundus mulle sümpaatne. Aga siin tuleb olla ettevaatlik, sest korralikel piltidel on alati kooskõla modelli, riiete ja üldstilistika vahel: pildil on sümpaatne, aga pole üldse selge, kas endale sobib. Selle juurde, miks oversized on mulle sümpaatne, tulen veel tagasi. Esialgu polnud põhjus üldse selge.
Oversized appealed to me. But here one should be careful because in decent modelled pictures there is always harmony between the model, clothes and a general style: the picture is attractive but it is not at all clear whether it suits you. I will come back to why I liked overisize. In the beginning the reason was not clear.

Mul oli selge, et väga suur, piltlikult öeldes, padjapüür 70 cm x 70 cm mulle ei sobi, aga nt 55 cm laiusega? Või 60 cm? Vaatame seda minu sviitrit. Pilt meeldib paljudele. Ise küsimus, kas niisugust asja lugeda oversized'iks. On justkui kena, aga mitte ideaalne..
It was clear to me from the beginning that a very roomy thing, so to say, a pillowcase 70 cm x 70 cm does not suit me. What about 55 cm width? Or 60 cm? Have a look at this sweater of mine. The picture is liked by many. Whether it qualifies as oversized, is another question. It is a kind of nice but not ideal.
Siis proovisin poes mitmeid kudumeid, võtsin oversized XS suuruses, ikka pole õige. Sain aru, et pole "minu oma". Hakkasin küsima, kuidas tuttavad kudujad suhtuvad sellesse. Suurem osa arvas, et on hea kududa ja ka kanda. Mõni ise ei kanna, aga koob hea meelega nt oma lastele. Mõnel on mõni oversized kudum, mis tundub mugav, aga pole erilist tahtmist neid massiliselt kududa. Veel oli arvamus, et sobib igale figuurile. Sellega on muidugi teatud probleem, sest asi pole ainult laiuses, vaid üldproportsioonides ka. Võib olla massiivne, aga pikk ja lame. Mõnel võib olla sama rinnaümbermõõt, kuid hoopis teine figuur. Nii et universaalset retsepti ei ole (minu arust väitesse, et asi/värv/lõige X sobib kõigile, tuleb suhtuda ettevaatlikult).
Then I kept trying on various knits, I took oversized in XS but this did not feel right either. I realized that it is not "mine". I asked my knitting friends about their attitudes to oversized knits. The majority believed that it is good to wear and to knit them. Some do not wear but knit to their children with pleasure. Some have a couple of oversized knits that are comfortable to wear but do not wish to knit them on a massive scale. There was also an opinion that oversized garments fit any shape and figure. There is a certain problem here because it is not only about the width but about general proportions. One can be of a powerful build but tall and flat-chested. Another person has the same chest circumference but a different shape. So there are no universal rules (in my view, tone should be cautions with claims like "X-thing/shape/colour suits all").

Hakkasin vaatama Pinterestis oversized kudumite pilte. Mul on kaustas Inspiration suur hulk selliseid. Nüüd tuleb see koht, kus räägime assotsiatsioonidest. Millega seostub oversized? Pinterestis peab piltidele kirjutama märksõnu. Kirjutan märksõnu tavaliselt kudumise seisukohalt (nt lihtne soonikus raglaan vms). Kuid paljud kirjeldavad nn kvalitatiivsete adjektiividega: armas, mugav, elegantne, ilus, hubane, kodune. Ükskord nägin järjest pilte, kus märksõnad olid "cozy", "comfy" jms. Ja siis taipasin! Oversized võib olla muidugi ka midagi muud kui kodune (vt alumine pilt), aga mina küll ei kirjeldaks end ja oma stiili  sõnadega "hubane", "mugav", "kodune". Ma ei näe ennast nii. Kui mulle selga tõmmata oversized asi, siis valgun laiali, mind pole näha. Veel hiljem sain aru, et see, mis mind köitis, on lihtsus. Aga lihtsus ei ole alati üks ja sama. Lihtsus võib kalduda tõesti mugavuse ja hubasuse suunas, aga ka sportlikkuse suunas (jälle pole minu rida). Minu lihtsuse liik on midagi muud.
I started looking oversized knits on Pinterest. I have a board called Insperation with quite a few of these. Let us return to associations here. What kind of associations oversized garments arise? One has to write comments and keywords to one's pictures on Pinterest. Usually I write something knitting related (for exampe, a simple ribbed raglan sweater etc). But many describe their pins with so-called qualitative adjectives: lovely, comfortable, elegant,  beautiful, cozy, homey. Ones I saw several pictures one after another with the keywords "cozy", "comfy". And then I got it! Oversized can be something different than homey (see picture below) but I would never describe myself or my style with the words "cozy", "comfy", "homey". I don't see myself in this way. If I am dressed in oversized things, I sort of melt away. Later I understood that the thing that attracted me was simplicity. But simplicity is not the same in all contexts. In some cases it may lean towards comfort and cozyness or towards sport-inspired styles (not my cup of tea either). My simplicity is something  else.
Vestlesin sel teemal Maijaga (ta on stilist Moskvast ja olen teda varemgi maininud; koos ühe teise stilistiga arendab ta praegu intuitiivse riietumise kontseptsiooni). Saatsin talle paar pilti. Ta arvas, et see küll pole "minu" oma. Mitte selles mõttes, nagu, ütleme, pastellvärvid ei ole kontrastse "talve" värvid, vaid ei ole minu stiili ja olekuga kooskõlas, kuigi figuuri järgi võiks sobida. Niisiis, mõnikord lihtsus = hubasus, mõnikord aga lihtsus = selge struktuur ja kuju. Minu riietel peab olema selge struktuur. See ei tähenda, et kõik peab olema liibuv, aga vorm peaks olema konkreetne ja miski peab kogu pilti koos hoidma. Te võite öelda, et liiga keeruline ja kas seda arutlust oli üldse vaja. Minu meelest on mul endal ikka vaja, asjad on nüüd palju selgemad.
I discussed it with Maya (she is a stylist from Moscow and I have mentioned her earlier; together with another stylist she has been working on the concept of intuitive dressing). I sent her a couple of pictures. She belived this was not "me". Not in the sense like, say, indefinite soft colours are not for a contrasting Winter but in the sense that this is at odds with my style and how I am, although everything fits the body. So in some cases simple = cozy and in others simplicity = clear structure and shape. My clothes should be structured. It does not think that everything should be with a negative ease but the shape should be concrete and something has to hold everything together. You may say that it is all too complicated and maybe this kind of deliberation was not needed at all. In my view, I really needed this because now the things are much more clear.

2 kommentaari:

Anneli T ütles ...

Igaühele oma! Mulle näiteks suured hilbud meeldivad - tunnen ennast neis hästi. Samas, mul on ainult üks suur kampsun, millega läheksin linna... teised ongi sellised kodused.
Arvan, et Sulle võiks sobida hoopis midagi mantlitaolist, nt see http://cervix247.tumblr.com/post/100892828511

Anna ütles ...

Anneli, aitäh. Jah, just nii, igaühele oma. Mulle meeldivad teoreetiliselt või teiste seljas ka, aga enda seljas mitte. Ilus pilt, kude meeldib mulle, aga peaks päriselus proovima.