Värvist ja stiilist, natuke kudumisest ka/On colours and style and something about knitting as well

Lubatud postitust värvidest.  Tegelikult värvidest ja stiilist. Hoiatan, et jutt on pikk! Loen mõningaid venekeelseid stiiliblogisid (kas moeanalüütika või arutlused isiklikust stiilst), seekord leidsin jälle midagi, mida tahaksin oma lugejatele vahendada. Maija on stilist, elab Moskvas, annab stiilinõu ja peab oma blogi siin. Olgu öeldud, et stiilinõu ei tähenda midagi nagu "Sel sügisel on moes X värvid ja kleidid olgu Y siluetiga" või "Pirnikujulisele figuurile sobib järsult laienev seelik". Sest minu arust stiil on midagi, mis on keha kuju, välimuse ja kindlasti ka isiklike suundumuste kombinatsioon. Oletame, et pirnikujulisele figuurile sobib just nimetatud kujuga seelik. Aga arvesse tuleb võtta proportsioonid (nt kas kere on pikk või lühike, milline peab olema seeliku pikkus jms). Kuid äkki konkreetne inimene ei armasta 1950-ndate esteetikat või ei kanna seelikuid üldse? Mis kasu on siis sellest nõuandest? Stilisti töö on tabada, mis on see sisemine suundumus. Olen kirjutanud, et mul on väga terav taju, mis on minu oma, mis ei ole minu oma ja mida võiks proovida. Oma stiili loomine algabki selle taju arendamisest.
The promised post about colours. It is about colours and style, in fact. I am warning you that the text is rather long! I read some Russian-language style blogs (fashion analysis or deliberation about personal style) and have recently found something I would like to share with my readers. Maya is a stylist from Moscow, she gives style advice and has her blog here. It should be mentioned that style advice is nothing like "this Autum colour X is in trend and dresses should have Y shape" or "Pear-shaped body looks flattering in a full skirt". Because in my view style is a combination of external characteristics,  appearance and, for sure, also personal inclinations. Let us suppose that pear-shaped figure indeed looks nice in the mentioned type of skirt. But one should take proportions into account (for instance, whether the torso part is long or short, what about the length of the skirt etc). And what if a particular person dislike the esthetics of the 1950s or does not wear skirts at all? What could one possibly gain from such an advice? A stylist has to discover this internal inclination. I have repeatedly written that I have a very clear intuition about what is mine, what is not mine and what I could try. The initial point of personal style developemnt is the development of this kind of intuiton.
Seejuures võib selguda midagi niisugust, mida Maija kirjeldab siin. Muide, meil on suht sarnane koloriit, ka tema on "talv" (konkreetne alatüüp võib erineda ja pealegi on erinevaid süsteeme), tumedate juuste ja silmadega ja heleda nahaga.
In the process something like Maya describes here may become apparent. By the way, we have a relatively similar type, she is also Winter (a particular subtype may differ and there are different systems as far as subtypes are conserned).
Nimelt räägib Maija oma värvidest. Mitmed stilistid järgivad teatud värvide klassifikatsiooni (nt Beauty for All Seasons vms) ja soovi korral annavad kliendile individuaalse värvipaleti. Tal on ka oma palett, mida võite näha selles postituses. Kui vene keelt ei oska, ei ole midagi, pildid on päris näitlikud. Ta on pannud oma paletid kokku nii, et oleks näha, mis värve ta kasutab. Kasutatavad värvid on paleti alguses. Enamiku ei kavatse ta üldse kasutada. Mis siis, et talle sobiksid teoreetiliselt ka muud paletis olevad värvid, ta ei vaja neid. "Kõik need värvid kaunistavad kontrastset talve kahvatu-kollaka naha, rohekas-pruunide silmade ja tumepruunide juustega. Aga mis minul on sellega pistmist? :)".
Namely, Maya discusses her own colours. Many stylists follow a certain classification within seasons (for instance, Beauty for All Seansons etc) and provide their clients with individual colour palettes, should one wish so. She has her own palette that you can see in the post. If you don't read Russian, no problem, the pictures are quite telling. She has arranged her palettes so that you can see what colours she uses. These colours are in the beginning of each palette. Most of colours are of no use to her. And it does not matter that theoretically other colours in the palettes suite her because she does not need them. "All these colours flatter a contrasting Winter with a pale yellowish skin, green-brown eyes and dark brown hair. But what does this have to do with me?:)"
Enda kohta kirjutab ta: "Olen klassikalilt tõsise ja hea tüdruku näopildiga, kes ei näe kuigi veenvalt välja eredate värvide virrvarri keskel või armsate pastellvarjunditega või lõbusate trükimustritega. See ei pane mind sugugi muretsema. Kõige rohkem armastan rahulikke, vaoshoitud värvitoone... [Maijale meelepäraste look'ide Pinteresti album on siin ja sealt leidub ka kudumeid]. ...Seletan igaks juhuks, et ma ei pea värvilisi riideid inetuks, vaid et  peaaegu täielik värvide puudumine on minu isiklik valik. Ühesõnaga, näen välja veidravõitu kõigi mulle võõraste stiilide värvigammades". Pange tähele viimane lause, see ongi see, mille pärast kirjutan praegust postitust. Värv või värvikombinatsioonid, mustrite olemasolu või puudumine on rohkem või vähem seotud stiiliga.
She writes about herself the following: "I have a classical appearance of a good and serious girl who does not look convincing amidst a storm of colours or with cute pastell shades or with merry printed patterns. And I am not concerned with it in the slightest. I mostly like calm, reserved colours... [Maya gives examples of looks she likes here on Pinterest and by the way there is knitwear there]. ... Just in case, this is not that I consider coloured garments as ugly but rather that almost complete absense of colur is my personal choice. In short, I look kind of weird in colour combinations of all styles that are strange to me". Please pay attention to the last sentence, this is why I am writing this post. A colour or a combination of colours, the presence or absence of patterns is more or less linked to style.
Meie stiilid (ja mitte ainult koloriit) on mõnevõrra sarnased, kuid Maija oma on pigem "naturaalne minimalism" (minu enda sõnastus ja mitte termin) ja minu oma on "dramaatiline minimalism". Väga tihti tekib ka selline tunne: teoreetiliselt võiks sobida see ja see värv/tegumood, aga, nagu Maija ütleb, mis on mul sellega pistmist? Aeg-ajalt kannan smaragdrohelist, tumelillat, punast, kuid põhiline on must ja hall. Kusjuures hall peab olema suhteliselt tume või sinakashall. Valgele lähenev hall enam ei sobi. See funktsioon, mida teistel täidavad eredad värvid, täidavad mul alati ehted (need peavad alati olema). "Dramaatiline" ei tähenda väljakutset või agressiivsust, vaid kontrasti lihtsa joone ja oma põhivärvi ning markantsete ehete vahel.

Our styles (and not only season colouring) are somewhat similar but Maya's style is more "natural minimalism" (this is my wording and not an established term) and mine is "dramatic minimalism". Very often I have the same feeling: in theory this or that colour/garment may suit me but, as Maya puts it, what does this have to do with me? From time to time I wear emerald green, dark purple and red but my main colours are black and grey. The latter has to be relatively dark or bluish gray. The one that approximates white does not suit. The function that other reserve for brigh colours is fulfilled by jewelry (I always have to wear some). "Dramatic" does not mean a wish to shock or agression but rather a contrast between simple shapes and my basic colours on one hand and noticeable jewelry on the other.

 

Mis sellel kõigil on pistmist kudumisega? Seletus on väga lihtne. Kui me ei õmble/ei koo, vaid valime poes pakutava hulgast, siis meie ainus vastutus on õige valiku tegemine. Kui aga teeme ise, siis loome oma riideid ise algusest peale. Valik ei piirdu otsusega "sobib/ei sobi", vaid valikuid on palju: lõnga tüüp ja selle omadused, lõnga värv, kudumi siluett, konstruktsioon, proportsioonid jms. Mõne lõngafirma värvikaart on selline, et mul pole sealt midagi tahta.
You may ask what it has to do with knitting. The explanation is fairly simple. If we do not sew/knit but rather choose our clothes from what is being on offer in stores, then making a right choice is our only rseponsibility. But if we make our garments, we create them from the scratch. The choice is not limited to the decision "fits/does not fit" but there is a lot of choices: the type and caracteristics of the yarn, the colour, the shape of the garment, the construction, proportions etc. Unfortunately, some yarn produces have such colour cards that there is nothing for me there.

Maija, aitäh, et lubasite mul kasutada Teie postituse materjale!

Maya, thank you for your kind permission to yous your post!

Майя, спасибо Вам, что разрешили использовать Ваши материалы!