neljapäev, 5. mai 2011

Konstruktsioon/Construction

Head sõbrad, nüüd varuge kannatust, sest tuleb pikk teooriajutt! Esialgu pilt, leitud kunagi ammu internetist.
Dear friends, now please be patient because I am going into a lengthy theoretical discussion! First of all, a picture found long ago on the internet.

Sellise kudumi tüüpiline õpetus oleks selline: muidugi esi- ja tagatükk eraldi, pärast kokku õmmelda, muidugi alt üles jms. Esialgu otse, vajaduse korral taljes kahandada (see pole praegu oluline), siis kududa maha käeaugu silmused kummaltki poolt, kududa mõned read, siis luua varrukate silmused kummaltki poolt, kududa mõnda aega, siis igas reas või igas teises reas kahandada, kuni silmuste arv on sobiv kaeluse kudumiseks. Teine pool samamoodi. Olen ammu mõelnud, kuidas seda kõike saaks omamoodi teha (loe: õmblusteta, eelistatavalt ülevalt alla).
A typical pattern for such a garment would be like this: of course, front and back piece knited separately, then seamed together, of course, started from the bottom. At first straight, waist shaping, if necessary (this is not relevant now), then straight till the armholes, then bind off some stitches from each edge, knit for some time, then cast on stitches for the sleeves, knit for some time, then start decreasing in every row or every second row till the number of stitches is good for the collar. I have been thinking how to render it my way (that is: seamless, preferably top down).
Mõte oli kusagil teadvuse tagasopis, äkki nägin Ravelrys niisugust rühma ja meetodit. Väga nutikas meetod! Selle asemel, et luua abilõngaga, kududa taga- ja esitükid kummaski suunas ja siis ühendada, SuzieM pakub järgmist: luuakse tagatüki kaeluse silmused + 1 + 1 + ääresilmused ja kasvatatakse 4 silmust igas reas: ääresilmus, lisa 1, n-ö kesksilmus (sinna tekib "õlaõmblus"), lisa 1, tagatüki silmused jne. Pärast, kui õlg on valmis, algavad varruka kasvatused juba teistmoodi, praegu lihtsuse mõttes ei räägi sellest. Nüüd 3 täpsustust. 1) Nagu aru saan, paljudele ei istu abilõngaga loomine jne. Olgu öeldud, et mul ei ole absoluutselt mingit probleemi sellega. Ilmselt sõltub loomise meetodist. Mina olen taas jalgrattaleiutaja, oles kudunud hästi mitu asja niiviisi, avastasin, et on olemas Barbara Walker! Nii et siin on tegemist puhta uudishimu, mitte lahenduse otsingutega. 2) Enamasti kootakse selles rühmas V-kaelusega sviitreid ja jakke, erandeid olen väga vähe näinud. 3) Mul on hoopis teistmoodi varrukad. Aga kogu jutt tõi meelde mu ammuse idee ja mõtlesin nüüd proovida.
The thought had been sitting somewhere in the back of my mind and suddenly I noticed this group and method on Ravelry. What a clever method! Instead of doing provisional cast-on, knitting the back piece, taking the stitches for the front pieces etc SuzieM suggests the following: cast-on the stitches for the back of the neck + 1 +1 + edge stitches and increase 4 stitches in every row: edge st, increase 1, central stitch, so to say (this will be the "shoulder seam"), increase 1, back piece stitches etc. When the shoulder is finished, the increases for the sleeve are done in a different way; I am not going into this now for the sake of simplicity. Now 3 clarifications. 1) As I understand, many people don't like provisional cast on etc. It should be said I have not a slightest reservation against it. Maybe it depends on a particular cast-on method. As always, I had invented the wheel and knitted quite a lot of garments in this way before I learned about Barbara Walker! So in this case it is pure curiosity and not looking for a solution. 2) Mostly they knit V-neck sweaters or cardigans in the group, at least, I have seen very few exceptions. 3) My sleeves are in a completely different way. But all this made me to recall my idea and I decided to try now.

Nagu näete, töötab!
As you see, it works!

Tegin niiviisi: lõin 74 silmust, ühendasin, kudusin mõned read kasvatamata. Siis hakkasin kasvatama: 36 silmust, õhksilmus, 1 "kesksilmus", õhksilmus, 36 silmust jne. Kogu aeg proovisin selga, kuni tekkis õlg. Seejärel kudusin mõnda aega kasvatusteta. Siis võtsin varruka silmused abilõngale (hiljem koon ääristuseks ripskoes), kudusin taga- ja esitüki mõnda aega eraldi (hästi vähe), siis lõin silmused kaenla alla ja ühendasin. Kuivõrd on see contiguous sleeve-meetod või mitte, otsustagu palun auväärt lugejad.
I made the following: cast on 74 stitches, joined and knitted some rows without increases. Then I started increases: 36 stitches, yarnover, 1 "central stitch", yarnover, 36 stitches etc. I tried on periodically till I had the shoulders. Afterwards I knitted some time without increases. Then I put sleeve stitches on a scrap yarn (I will make an edge in garter stitch later), knitted front and back separately for some time (rather little), then casted on stitches for the underarms and joined. To what extent this is according to contiguous sleeve method, I leave to honourable readers to decide.

13 kommentaari:

Malle ütles ...

Kui huvitav ja samas nii ütlemata lihtne lahendus! Kindlasti proovin järgi :)

Mia ütles ...

Onpas mielenkiintoinen rakenne, jota pitää testata!

villapeikko ütles ...

Väga lahe konstruktsioon, tuli suur tahtmine järele proovida. Aitäh et oma teadmisi jagasid!

Ülle ütles ...

väga huvitav konstruktsioon, sooviks ka sellist õppida.

Hepsi ütles ...

Mielenkiintoista! Kiitos vinkistä!

Diana ütles ...

Very interesting Anna :-)) Looking forward to your finished top. I think I would like to try this method too :-))The shoulder seams look very nice.

Anna ütles ...

Malle, aitäh! Postitasin contiguous-rühmas Raverlys ja küsisin, mida arvatakse. Seni on reageerinud üks inimene. Huvitav, kas seda minu konstruktsiooni peetakse contiguous-meetodiks või mitte (vahe on varrukas).

Mia, kiitos! Ehdottomasti! Kuvittelen jo, että voisi olla mekko vironvillasta:).

Suvi, suur tänu! Võib küll ära proovida esialgu mõne tuttava lõngaga, mille võib hõlpsasti harutada (mul oli alguses kiusatus teha mohäärist, aga siis mõtlesin ümber).

Ülle, aitäh! Proovi kindlasti, on ebatavaline!

Heli, kiitos itsellesi!

Diana, thank you! I think I will finish quite soon. Then will try out some lace pattern etc. Maybe in the middle only in order to avoid complicated arithmetics:).

Ülle ütles ...

Väga huvitav lahendus, tekkis kohe huvi järgi proovida. Aitäh õpetuse eest!

Brenda ütles ...

Brilliant! So glad you've tried this. I have been musing over trying this, but I so very rarely wear unbuttoned tops so it wasn't going to be soon. Love the slight funnel neck.

How are you going to overcome the curl? It curls more than an ordinary edge since there are more stitches in it.

The sleeve head looks great too. Mine have increases in them, I think I couldn't get away without, but you are so slender, and as simple cap sleeves it looks very elegant.

Exciting!

Anna ütles ...

Ülle, kindlasti proovi järgi! On lihtne. Soovitan alustuseks kasutada mõnda lõnga, mille võib kergesti harutada.

Brenda, thank you very much! I really wanted to get your opinion. Do you mean the curl on the neck? I actually intended this, it looks nice when I try on. An alternative for the sleeves if you want to have cap sleeves and yet need increases (just my guess): make increases but not at regular points (the borders between the sleeves and the body) as in the method but, say, every 3rd stitch on every 2nd row etc.

Brenda ütles ...

Sorry to be so long in replying.

Yes I mean the curl on the neck. On both of mine, the back of the neck is a very exaggerated curl because there are more stitches in the centre than at the edges. I think with a funnel neck it might not be so noticeable since the edge rolls over on itself anyway.

Cap sleeves don't need much of an increase, do they? Most of the width, well maybe not most, but as much as a half, can come from the underarm, maybe? Actually, I don't know. Every 3rd stitch on every 2nd row might be too much. Who knows? Hah!

Will try.

Anna ütles ...

Brenda, thank you. I cannot say that the curl is very exaggerated. I like it and use from time to time on purpose. But a funnel neck may indeed do the trick.
I did not make increases in cap sleeves so I really cannot say. The sleeves got separated, then I knitted the back and the front piece separately for 6 rows and added 1 stitch at each edge of the back and front piece (+ 4 sts). Then I joined and casted on stitches for underarm. For finishing of the sleeves, I put the separated stitches on the needle and picked up stitches around the armhole. Here you can pick up as much as you need. I worked long sleeves in my blue mohair sweater and the procedure was the same.

Laura ütles ...

This is absolutely lovely! Thank you for sharing