Proportsioonidest/On proportions

Kui räägin õpilastele kudumisest, räägin alati proportsioonidest. Esimene asi on muidugi strateegia: mis kudumit tahan, mis on tehnilised lähtepunktid (kust alustada, mida teha järgmisena jne). Aga edasi tuleb keerulisem osa, nimelt proportsioonid. Keerulisem sellepärast, et on vaja pisut kogemusi. Soovitan toimida nii: ütleme, mõne rõiva või kudumi kaelus sobib hästi (see on väga individuaalne, nt mulle sobib paatkaelus, aga sugugi mitte kõigile jms), sellisel juhul mõõda laiust ja sügavust ning jäta meelde, mis suhtes on need mõõdud terviku (nt seljatüki laiuse ja käeaugu pikkuse) suhtes. Näiteks tavajuhul on kaeluse laius pisut üle 1/3 selja laiust. Tõsi küll, mõnel juhul see võib olla lausa pool, aga kirjutasin "tavajuhul". Teine võimalus on vaadata igasuguseid kudumisõpetusi just niisuguse pilguga: millised on proportsioonid.
When I talk to my students about knitting, I always talk about proportions. Of course, the very first thing is strategy: what kind of knit I want, what the departure points are (where from to start, what to do next etc). But later on a more difficult part begins, namely, proportions. It is more difficult because it requires some experience. I recommend to do the following: let us say, you like the neck opening of a certain garment or knit (it is very individual, for instance, boat neck suits me but not necessarily everyone), then measure the width and the depth and memorize the correlation between these measurements and the whole (for instanse, the width of the back piece and the length of the armhole). For example, in general the width of the neck opening is slightly over 1/3 of the width of the back piece. It is true that sometimes it can reach even one half but note that I wrote "in general". Another option is to carefully study all kind of paterns with a focus on proportions.

Nagu näete, tegemist on jakiga. Jaki puhul on oluline esitükkide laius. Seekord tegin nii: tegin oletuse esitüki silmuste arvu kohta ja siis hakkasin uurima oma märkmeid ja vanu õpetusi. Selgus, et oletus oli üldjoontes õige. Kui ei ole midagi erilist ja ei taha esitükkide väga suurt kattuvust, vaid suhteliselt kitsast nööbiliistu, siis on esitükki laius umbes 60 % seljatüki laiusest. Kuna koon ülevalt alla, siis seljatüki laius ei ole sama, mis rinnaümbermõõt jagatud kahega, vaid vahemaa õlgade vahel (ülesloomisäär). Ilmselt on võimalik ka pisut suurem arv, nt 65 %. Selge, et palju oleneb lõngast. Lõpuks veel selline tähelepanek. Ingliskeelses maailmas tuntakse Elizabeth Zimmermanni nn protsendisüsteemi. Idee on väga mõistlik, kuigi ma ei pea seda süsteemi universaalseks, sest kehakujud on erinevad ja kui rääkida kaelusest, siis asi läheb keeruliseks, peab teadma just oma õiget kuju ja mõõte. Teine asi, et ta koob alt üles ja tema jaoks on 100 % rinnaümbemõõt. Aga see pole oluline, oluline on idee, mis töötab olenemata lõnga jämedusest jne. Nii et on hea midagi niisugust enda jaoks välja töötada.
As you can see, this is going to become a jacket. For a jacket the width of the front pieces is crucial. This time I did the following: I assumed the number of stitches required for the front piece and then started looking up my notes and my patterns. It came out that my assumption was more or less correct. If you have nothing special going on and you don't want the front pieces to overlap a lot but you rather wish a relatively narrow button band, then the width of a front piece is about 60 % of the width of the back piece. Note that while I knit top down, the width of the back piece does not equal the bust curcumference divided by two; it is the width between the shoulders (cast-on edge). Probably, a slightly bigger figure like 65 % is also possible. It is clear that a lot depends on the yarn. Finaly, a note. Many English-speakers know Elizabeth Zimmermann's percentage system. The idea is quite reasonable, although I do not consider this system to be universally suitable for everyone, because body shapes differ and when you start talking about the neck opening, it becomes rather difficult because you have to know your indvidual measurements and suitable shape. Another thing is that she knits bottom up and for her 100 % is bust circumference. But all in all these differences are not important, the idea is important because it works regardless of yarn weight etc. So it is quite sensible to work out something similar for yourself.