Jälle sallist/Again about the scarf

Mõni aeg tagasi näitasin alustatud salli. Kõik oli tore, muster meeldis, ainult et olles mõnda aega kudunud, veendusin, et on liiga lai. Muidugi on võimalik luua vähem mustrikordi. Kuid kui mustrikord on suhteliselt lai (10 s + 5 s sümmeetria jaoks), siis on oht, et laius on kas liiga suur või liiga väike. Võib mängida ka mustrikorra laiusega, nt 14 s + 7 s sümmeetria jaoks, aga see ei andnud erilist tulemust. Ja 6 s + 3 sümmeetria jaoks ei tundunud kuigi huvitav. Mida teha?
Some time ago I showed a scarf I started. Everything seemed fine, I liked the stitch pattern but after having knitted for a while I realised it was too broad. Of course it is possible to cast on fewer pattern repeats. But if a pattern repeat is relatively broad (10 sts + 5 sts for symmetry), there is a risk that the scarf would be either too narrow or too wide. One can play with the pattern repeat width (14 sts + 7 sts for symmetry. And 6 sts + 3 sts for symmetry did not look good. What should be done?

Lahendus oli lihtne: võtta jämedamad vardad. 3,5 mm vardaga kududes tundus, et on üsna tihke kude. Sall pole sokk ega kinnas, ei pea väga tihke olema. Nii et võtsin 4 mm vardad ja nii lihtne see oligi.
The solution was simple: to take thicker needles. While working with 3.5 mm needles it seemed that the fabric is rather tight. A scarf is neither a sock nor a mitten and it does not need to be very dense. So I took 4 mm neeldes and it was as simple as that.

Ajaloolised ja mitte-ajaloolised kudumid/Historical and non-historical knits

Pealkiri võib tunduda veider. Postitus on pikk! Traditsioonilised kudumid pole minu eriala. Siiski huvitab mind n-ö konstruktiivne pool: kuidas kudumeid on konstrueeritud ja mis on muutunud (või ei ole). Raamatus on pisut juttu õmblusteta kudumite ajaloost (paljud traditsioonilised sviitrid on õmblusteta). Selle postituse ajendiks on Dagmari postitus blogis ja Ravelrys. Ta on valmis saanud nn Ruhnu sviitri (rosavamsa), tuginedes ajaloolisele mudelile (blogipostituses on originaali pilt olemas).
The title might appear strange. It is a long post! Traditional knitting is not my field. Still I am interested in the constuctive aspect thereof: namely, how knitwear used to be constructed and how constructions have changed (or not). In my book some space is dedicated to the history of seamless knits (many traditional sweaters are seamless). The idea for this post came from Dagmar's entry on her blog and on Ravelry. She has finished a sweater in the spirit of  knitwear tradtion of the Ruhnu island (rosavamsa), baased on the historical model (the photo of the original is on her blog).

Minu arust on pilt väga õnnestunud. Ruhnu vamsad on kootud eraldi tükkidena ja erinevalt teistest meremeeste sviitritest on taljest sisse kootud. Kui seda mitte arvesse võtta, on siluett väga sarnane traditsiooniliste iiri jms kampsunite omaga (inglise keeles võib otsida Aran sweater, fishermens's sweater, gurnsey jms). Nimetatud kampsunid on traditsiooniliselt õmblusteta ja alt üles, erijooneks on kiil kaenla all. Ühes venekeelses allikas leidsin infot ka ülevalt alla kootud iiri sviitri kohta. Kui vene keeles ei loe, saab vaadata pilte. Kahjuks puuduvad viited, oleks huvitav teada, kus niiviisi kooti. Muidugi on hästi palju moodsaid tõlgendusi. Üks hea ülevaade, kuidas kududa traditsiooniline kalamehe sviiter, on siin.
In my opinion the picture has turned out extremely well. Ruhnu vamsa is worked in separate pieces and, differently from other types of traditional fishermen's sweaters, has waist shaping. If we disregared this detail, the shape is very similar to this of traditional Irrish, fishermen's, Aran sweaters. The mentioned sweaters are traditionally worked from bottom to top seamlessly and underarm gusset is their characteristic feature. In a Russian-language source I found information about top-down Irish sweater. If you don't read Russian, the photos help. Unfortunately, there are no references to other sources: it would be instructive to know where this construction was used. Needles to say, there are countless modern interpretations. A good guied how to make a traditional fishermen's sweater is here.

Pildil on hollandikeelse raamatu kaas (Kalameeste sviitrid lastele) (siit). Nüüd milleks kogu jutt? Vaatame Dagmari vamsat lähemalt (pilt tema blogist). Kitsas muster algab õlajoonelt ja läheb alla. See viibki järgmise mõttekäigu juurde.
This is the cover of the Dutch book (Fishermen's sweaters for children) (from here). Why all this story? Let us observe Dagmar's sweater (the picture is from her blog). A narrow pattern starts at the shoulder line and goes down. This brings to the next deliberation.

Minu ripsiga poolpatendis, aga ka muud madala õlajoonega sviitrid on kootud tehniliselt teisiti (ülevalt alla ilma õmblusteta), aga neil on ka see joon. Viimasel ajal meeldib mulle selle konstruktsiooni puhul kududa rohkem silmuseid ripskoes (rea alguses ja lõpus 2-3 s). Kui hiljem kududa otsa varrukad, siis tekib ilus kontrast. Võib olla ka väike palmik, vikkel jms. Küljemusterid olen aga teinud alati. Selle tegumoe puhul ongi loogiline teha esi- ja seljatüki äärel midagi, mis jätkuks ka külgedel. Niisiis, siin on teile ka mitte-ajalooline kudumine!
My half-patent and garter stitch sweaters and also other sweaters with low shoulder line are constructed in a different way (top-down and seamlessly), but they have this feature as well. Recently I have been feeling like knitting more stitches in garter (2-3 sts in the beginning and in the end of the row). When stitches for sleeves are picked up later, you get a nice contrast. You can have a narrow cable, twisted stitches an so on. And I have always made the side pattern. In this construction it is rather logical to make something at the edges of the back and front pieces and then to continue the pattern on the side. So here is non-historical knitting for you!

 

See on lihtne sviiter, tegumood meeldib mulle. Kes tahab, võib teha üleni mustriga Ruhnu või mõnes muus tratitsioonis.
It is a simple sweater and I like the construction. If you want, you can make it all over in a pattern, Ruhnu or any other traditional stitch.

 

Sall kingituseks/A scarf for a present

Koon salli kingituseks. Tahtsin reljeefset mustrit. Esialgu mõtlesin, et mõni meriino lõng võiks olla hea, vaatasin poes ringi. Siiski eelistan villast ja kingisaaja ei ole villa suhtles tundlik. Lõng on täisvillane Jil (50 g/125 m), vardad 3,5 mm. Tegelikult on veel tumedam sinine.
I am making a scarf for a present. I wanted a textured pattern. At first I concidered merino and looked around in the shop. Still, I prefer pure woll and the person for whom the present is meant is not sensitive to wool. The yarn is pure wool Jil (50 g/125 m), neeldes 3.5 mm. The real colour is even darker blue.

Salli lugu/A story of a scarf

Mäletate seda salli?
Do you remember this scarf?

 

Ja seda postitust? Nüüd YU Magazine'i talvenumbri kaanemodell valitud. Selle puhul korraldati pidu ja mulle anti võimalus kinkida mõni kudum. Mulle meeldis väga Brandoni pilt ja otsustasin kinkida sall talle.
And this post? Now YU Magazine Winter issue cover model competition has been chosen. A party was organized on this occasion and I had an opportunity to give a present to my favourite candidate. I liked Brandon's picture a lot and decided to give the scarf to him.

 

Nüüd tuleb kududa endale selline sall. Võib-olla peenemast lõngast ja pisut laiema ja lühema.
Now I have to knit it again. Maybe from a thinner yarn and a slightly shorter andwider one.

Kooskudumine/KAL

Eestikeelne kooskudumine välja kuulutatud. Tegin sündmuse Facebookis. Palun jagage, lööge kaasa, kommenteerige.
This time the KAL is in Estonian. I made an event on Facebook. If you can read Estonian (I know some Finnish knitters can), you can take part and comment in English, Finnishe etc.

 

 

Pilte/Pictures

Sviiter on kerge ja soe. Kristiina, tänan piltide eest!
The sweater is light and warm. Kristiina, thanks for the pictures!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lõng/Yarn: Angora 2 (Midara), ~ 120 g; Haapsalu (Midara), ~ 64 g.
Vardad/Neeldes: 4,5 mm
Ravelry

Homme tunnis/Tomorrow in class

Räägime ripsiga poolpatentkoes sviitri konstrueerimisest.
We shall discuss construction of the sweater in half-patent with garter stitch. 

Kooskudumine tuleb eesti keeles minu FB disaineri lehel. Jälgige infot.
I will start a KAL in Estonian on my FB designer page. Stay tuned.

Natuke pikk/A little bit long

Ka see sviiter on natuke pikk, sest poolpatentkude on pikkusesse veninud, aga mitte väga. Umbes 5 cm tuleb lühemaks harutada. Muidu olen rahul.
Also this sweater is a little bit long because half-patent stitch has stretched in the lengthb, although not too much. I have to rip about 5 cm. Otherwise I am pleased.

 

Rips + poolpatent nr 4/Garter stitch and half-patent sweater no 4

Niisiis, sviitri pilte. Kristiina, suur tänu!
So here are pictures of the sweater. Kristiina, many thanks!

 

 

 

 

Lõng/Yarn: 1) Drops Loves You 7 (Drops, 50 g/170 m), 100 % puuvill/cotton, ~860 m 2) Haapsalu (Midara, 100 g/1400 m), ~860 m.
Vardad/Neeldes: 3,5 mm, 4 mm (alumise ääre mahakudumiseks/to bind off the bottom edge).
Ravelry

Varrukad on olemas/The sleeves are completed

Nüüd on mõlemad varrukad olemas. Koon alla.

Now I have both sleeves. I am working downwards. 

 

All on ripsiga soonik.
The sleeve ends with broken rib.

Kahandused.
Decreases.

Jalle/Again

Ausõna, kavatsesin kududa midagi muud, tahtsin proovida üht konstruktsiooni. Aga lõng ei sobinud selleks, sest Angora 2 pole eriti langev, talle peaks lisama nt sokilõnga või Raasiku villast või midagi analoogset, mida mul parajasti ei ole. Samas tahtsin proovida, kuidas ripsiga poolpatent toimib mohääri sisaldusega lõngal. Toimib ilusti. Angora 2 pole väga karvane. Lõng on peenike, muster paistab kenasti. Panin juurde peenvillast (poolilõng 100 g/1400 m). Kahjuks on pilt eilne, sest nüüd tahab aku laadida. Võrreldes eilsega on kaenla alla lisandunud u. 15 cm. Mõne aja pärast alustan varrukaid.
Honestly, I intended to knit something else, I wanted to try out a certain construction. But the yarn was not suitable for it because Angora 2 does not fall well and another yarn should be added, something like sock yarn or Raasiku wool or a similar yarn that I do not have right now. At the same time I wanted to check how half-patent with garter stitch works with a mohair blend. It works quite well. Angora 2 is not very fluffy. The yarn is thin and the pattern has a good definition. I added laceweight wool (bought on a cone, 100 g/1400 m). Unfortunately, my picutures are from yesterday because right now the battery of my camera has to be charged. Compared to yesterday, some 15 cm was added in the length from the armholes donwnwards. I will start sleeves soon.

 

Kuna tunnis oli huvi niisuguse sviitri ja konstruktsiooni vastu, teen vastava materjali järgmisel nädalal (sel nädalal enam ei jõua, räägime sellest, mis plaanitud oli). Loodetavasti on siis sviiter valmis ja saan näidata.
As some interest was shown in class and several wished to try the construction and the sweater, I will prepare appropriate materials for next week (cannot do it this week, we will discuss what was planned for the current week). I hope the sweater is finished by then and I will be able to show it.

Valmis/Finished

Praegu peaks kuduma villaseid asju, aga see siin on põhiliselt puuvillane, kui mitte arvestada peenvillast, mis mõjutab põhiliselt värvi ja mitte muud. Tunnis selgus, et seda tüüpi sviitrite vastu on huvi. Ilmselt tuleb sellest mudelist ja konstruktsioonist eraldi rääkida. Mõtlen ka kooskudumisele.
It is high time to knit wool now but this one is mostly cotton, to say nothing about laceweight wool that affects colour but nothing else. In class it came out that there is interest towards this kind of sweaters. Probably, I should talk separately about this model and construction. I am considering a KAL, too.

 

 

Puuvillast Drops Loves You 7 (50 g/170 m) kulus pisut üle 5 tokki (jõudsin alustada 6-ndat). Peenvillast (Hapsalu, 100 g/1400 m) ei ole veel kaalunud, aga kujutan ette, et midagi 50-60 g vahel.
I used up slightly over 5 balls of Drops Loves You cotton (50 g/170 m), barely started the 6th ball. I have not yet weighed the wool (Haapsalu, 100 g/1400 m) but I assume it was between 50-60 g.