Topp: protsess ja tulemus/Top: process and result

Huvi pärast tegin pilte mitmel kudumisetapil.
Just for fun I took picks on every knitting state.

 

 

 

 

 

Lõng/Yarn: Mistral by CeWeC (100 % puuvill/cotton, 50 g/125 m), ~ 625 m
Vardad/Needles: 3 mm

Kuidas lõng mõjutab üldmuljet/How different yarns create different mood

Tegin selle mustriga esimese sviitri Teksrena villasest (100 g/350 m). Lõng sobib selge joonega mustriteks (rombid, diagonaalid vms), reljeefsed mustrid aga "kaovad". Pseudopalmik oli sobiv lahendus.
I made the first sweater with this pattern from Teksrena wool (100 g/350 m). The yarn is suitable for patterns with clear outline (diamonds, diagonals etc), while textured pattern "disappear". A mock cable was a right solution.

Teine on peenemast lõngast, meriino-nailoni segu (100 g/400 m). See lõng sobib ka mõningateks reljeefseteks mustriteks. Pseudo-palmik on üsna nähtav ja pole ainult aimatav nagu eelmise sviitri puhul. Kannan seda üsna palju.
The second is from a thinner yarn, merino-nylon blend 8100 g/400 m). The yarn is suitable for certian textured patterns. The mock cable is quite visible, unlike in the previous sweater where it is just a hint. It gets a lot of wear.

Kolmas on mohääri-nailoni segu + peenike meriino. Minu arust ei kõlba see mohäärilõng sviitriteks ilma kaaslaseta, on liiga kerge. Tulemus on vastu valgust vaadates läbipaistev, kuid samas on muster üsna konkreetne ja hästi nähtav.
The third is a mohair-nylon blend + laceweight merino. In my view, this mohair is not suitable for sweaters without a companion, it is too light. The result is transparent when you look against the light, yet the pattern has a good definition and is quite visible.

 

Ja nüüd kõik kolm koos.
And now all three together.

Midseason scarf, kahekordne õhksilmus/Midseason scarf, dobule yarnover

On küsitud, kuidas kududa tagasireas kahekordne õhksilmus. 1 pp, 1 pp tagumise aasa kaudu.
I was asked how to work double yarnover on wrong side. K1, k1 through back loop.

Tütre filmitud. Jutt on sellest sallist.
Filmed by my daughter. This is the scarf we are talking about.

 

Sviitrist ja muudest plaanidest/About the sweater and other plans

Sviiter edeneb, mõlemad varrukad on olemas, edasi on kõik lihtne.
The sweater is progressing, now both sleeves are finished and from now on it is quite easy.

 

Eelmises postituses lubasin rääkida varrukast. Nagu näete, kuna see on ovresized ja oma olemuselt sirge joonega sviiter, on ka käeauk sirge ja kõik varruka silmused korraga üles korjatud. Parema istuvuse jaoks tegin aga alguses natuke lühikesi ridu, siis varrukas on kere suhtes natuke diagonaalis.
In the previous post I promised to talk about the sleeve construction. As you see, since it an oversized sweater with no shaping, the armhole is straight as well and all sleeve stitches are picked up at once. However, for a better fit I made some short rows, so the sleeve has a slight angle.

Siin on ka muid detaile, aga sellest räägime, kui sviiter on valmis. Varem lubasin rääkida plaanidest. Kõik ei mahu ühte postitusse, aga kirjutan vähemalt natuke kahest järgmisest kudumist.
The sweater has some other details, too, but we shall talk about them after completion. Earlier I promised to write about my plans. I cannot fit everything into a single post but will give some idea at least about the two next knits.

Ülemisel pilidil on vana tuttav mohäär (vt siin). Seekord sellest tuleb sall, proovime, kuidas selle salli muster sobib mohäärile.
In the top pic you see an old acquaintance, mohair I used here. This time it will be a scarf, we shall see how this pattern looks in mohair.

Ja punane on ka vana tuttav kombinatsioon, Angora 2 ja Haapsalu. Sellest tuleb üks tellimus, sirbikujuline rätik. Tellijaga käisime Domus Linum poes, vaatasime rätikuid, talle meeldis eelmise aasta kruiisirätiku kuju ja muster, aga Eesti villane on tema jaoks liiga kare. Tuleb selline rätik, ainult teisest lõngast.
And the red yarns are also a familiar combination, Angora 2 and Haapsalu. It will be a knit on order, a sickle-shaped shawl. We visited Domus Linum store and she tried various shawls there and liked the shape and the stitch pattern of the cruise shawl from the last year but Estonian wool seemed too coarse for her. So it will be the same pattern but from different yarns.

Veel üks topp küpsemas/Another top under construction

Mul jäi järele selle topi lõnga. Lõng on päris kena, saab teha ka reljeefseid mustreid. Pealegi mu palmikutega sviiter on osutunud üsna kasutatavaks, kandsin seda sel talvel üsna palju ja hakkasin mõtlema, et võiks ka suveks teha midagi palmikutega.
I have yarn leftovers from this top. The yarn is quite nice, suitable for textured patterns as well. In addition to this, my cabled sweater has proven very wearable and I used it a lot during the winter and started thinking about a cabled knit for summer.

Talvessviiter on aga suure mohäärisisaldusega ja seal on palmikud nähtavad, samas pole väga esileulatuvad. Sama efekti tahtsin ka siin, aga see lõng pole vist palmikute jaoks hea. Need siin pole palmikud, vaid nn pseudopalmikut. Seda mustrit olen kasutanud palju. Väga paindlik, sest saab reguleerida mustrikorra laiust ja mõnevõrra ka kõrgust (nt kududa ilma kahanduste ja kasvatusteta rohkem või vähem ridu).
The winter sweater has a great amount of mohair and cables are visible yet not very outstanding. I wanted the same effect here but this yarn is probably not very suitable for cables. These are not cables but so-called mock-cables. I've used this pattern a lot. It is rather flexible because you can adjust the width of the oattern repeat and the height to some extent (by knitting without decreases and increases more or less rows).

Pidin lahendama varrukate probleemi. Tahtsin lühikest varrukat. Nagu näete, servas jookseb kahekordne pärlkude (kananahk). Arvasin, et teen samamoodi, nagu talvesviitri puhul: koon varruka keskel ühe mustrikorra ja muu oleks pärlkoes. Aga ei olnud kuigi hea, pärlkoe ja mustri tihedus on liiga erinev. Siis mõtlesin, et 2 x 2 soonik oleks hea, aga siis tekib küsimus, kuidas lõpetada all, sest oleks üsna raske teha üleminek põhimustrilt 2 x 2 soonikule. Siis tegin lihtsalt 1 x 1 soonikut ja see töötas. Samamoodi viimistlesin kaelust. Nüüd peab vaid alla kuduma.
I had to deal with the sleeves. I wanted short sleeves. As you can see, I have some double moss stitch before and after the main pattern. At first I planned to do as in the winter sweater: one pattern repeat in the centre of the sleeve and double moss stich on the left and on the right from it. But it did not look good because the gauge was too different. Then I thought about 2 x 2 ribbing but then it is not clear how to finish in the bottom because it is difficult to make a nice transition from the main pattern to 2 x 2 ribbing. Then I just made 1 x 1 ribbing and it worked. I finihsed the neck opening in the same manner. Now I have to work downards.

Punane jakk kasvab/The red cardi is growing

Alustasin eile esimest varrukat. Vahepeal tundus, et kuna kampsun on lai, edeneb kudumine aeglaselt, aga nüüd tundub, et täna saab lõpetatud esimene varrukas ja alustatud teine ning pärast on vaja kehaosa kududa ehk 2-3 mustrikorda pikkusesse.
Yesterday I started the first sleeve. Meanwhile I had a feeling that due to the fact that the cardi is quite wide, my progres is slow; however, now it appears that the first sleeve will be completed and the second started today and aftwerwards some 2-3 pattern repeats for the torso are needed.

 

 

Kõik ääred (nööbiliistud, kaelus jne) tulevad kahekordses pärlkoes (nn kananahk), kõige ülemisel pilidl on ehk näha. Hea teada, et Teksrena villane lubab seda kude, sest sugugi kõik villased lõngad ei armasta seda. Nt Raasiku 8/2 mitte eriti (minu kogemuse järgi), küll aga 8/3.
All edges (button bands, neck opening etc) are in double moss stitch, you can probably notice it in the top picture. It is good to know that Teksrena wool allows this stitch pattern because quite a lot of woollen yarns ado not favour it. For instance, in my experience it is not very impressive in Raasiku 8/2 but it is in 8/3.

Krae/Collar

Mõne konstruktsiooni puhul saab alustada kohe kraest. Seekord ma siiski seda ei teinud, kuid ilmselt mõnda järgmist sviitrit alustan kraest. Mul on mõningaid kaalutlusi ja tähelepanekuid, millest kirjutan kunagi hiljem.
Some constructions allow to start directly from the collar. This time I did not do it, though, but probably will do in the nearest future. I have some considerations and observations which I will discribe sometimes later.

Lõng on peenike meriino-polüamiidi segu ja mohäär. Pildil pole näha, see mohäär on ilmselgelt hall, kuigi siiski tumehall. Seekord otsustasin, et koon peenema vardaga (muidu oleks kudunud taolist kombinatsiooni 4 mm vardaga, aga kuna mohäär on väga peenike, võtsin seekord 3,5 mm, ringselt kududes 4 mm). Kahel alusel pildil näete õiget värvi.
The yarns are: laceweight merino-polyamide blend and mohair. The picture does not show the true colours, this mohair is really grey but still dark grey. This time I decided to work with smaller needles (otherwise I would worked such a combination with 4 mm needles but this mohair is rather thin and this time I took 3.5 mm and 4 mm for round knitting). You can see true colour in the two last pictures.

Seekord tuleb klassikaline kaarega varukas.
This time there will be classical set-in sleeve.

Modifitseeritud/Modified

Olen praegu Leedus. Sain rätiku valmis ja pildistasin kohe Diteksase poes (taustal on mohääripoolid). veel pesemata ja pingutamata, et oleks arusaadav, mis on vahe.
I am in Lithuania now. I finished the shawl and quickly photographed it at the Diteksas store (you can see mohair cones in the background), still unwashed and unbocked, so that the difference can be seen.

Siin on arusaadav, milline on kuju.
Here you can get an idea about the shape.

Muster ja värvivahetuskoht.
The pattern and the point of colour change.

Aknapilid.
Window photos.

 

Nagu näha, on selline väljavenitatud kolmnurk, mille sisekülg on ümar ja otsad kipuvad spiraali. Lühikesed read sobisid kokku mustriga.

As you can see, it is a stretched triangle with curved inner side and the ends going spiral. Short rows woked well with the stitch pattern.

Pikemalt sviitrist/More about the sweater

Fotograafi praegu pole, seetõttu tegin ühe selfie-katse (ehk kena pildina, kuid mitte ei anna ettekujutust kudumist), et näidata enam-vähem, mis toimub. Ülemisel pildil on varruka muster näha.
I don't have a photographer right now, so in order to show more or less what it is all about, I made a selfie-attempt (may be these may be considered as fine pohotos but they give no idea about the knit itself). On the top picture you can see the sleeve pattern.

 

Niisiis, mul jäi üks tokk mohääri kasutmata (ei läinud nii palju, kui arvasin), viisin tagasi poodi, et millegi vastu ümber vahetada. Muidugi ei saanud tumehallist mööda minna. Arvasin, et võiks proovid meriinot. Tegin proovilapi, vaatasin, et labane parempidine on ebahuvitav. Mingeid mustreid, pitse ega palmikuid ei tahtnud. Hoopis labane pahempidine tundus huvitavam. Hakkasin kuduma, kogu aeg oli kahtlus, et kude on kuidagi tihke, piltlikult öeldes sviiter seisab püsti (kuigi jämedama vardaga kududes oleks juba liiga hõre). Ei teinud enda arust liiga liibuvat, on ikka istumisavarust, aga kudum tundus ikka liibuv. Lambavillasega nii ei ole, kui kood, on enam-vähem selge. Küsisin Maiu käest, ta kinnitas, et pesus avaneb kude rohkem ja võib-olla venib isegi välja. Sviiter oli juba peaaegu valmis, siis arvasin, et varruka muster tõmbab kogu varruka kokku ja ilmselt tuleb siiski ära harutada ja midagi muud välja mõelda. Siis tegin kaeluse viimistluse, pilt muutus paremaks. Mõtlesin siis, et tühja, niisutan ja pingutan, pärast vaatame. Ja nüüd tundub, et polegi viga.
So I had one ball of mohair left from a previous knit (I had not used up as much as I thought I would), I took it back to the store in order to exchange for something else. Of course I cannot leave alone dark grey. I thought that I could tried out merino. I made a swatch and realized that stockinette is unimpressive. I did not want any cables or lace. Reverse stockinette was much more attractive. I started knitting and having doubts all the time that the fabric is too dense; to put it figuratively, the sweater was standing vertically (albeit larger needles would give an excessively loose fabric). I calculated fore some positive ease but the sweater seemed to cling to my body. It does not happen with sheep wool: when you knit, you see more or less how it is going to turn out. I asked Maiu what she thought and she confirme that the fabric would open up after moistening and blocking and may even stretch. The sweater was almost finished and I thought the stitch pattern on the sleeves makes the whole sleeve contract and that I will have to rip it all out and invent something different. Then I made the neck finishing and it improved the whole picture. Then I decided that I will make it wet and block and then we shall see. And now it seemes not bad at all. 

Rätik ja mõned järeldused/The shawl and some conclusions

Rätik on valmis. Aga siin on mitu seika juures. Olen üht-teist õppinud. Sirbikujulised rätikud on reeglina sellise konstruktsiooniga, et 2 rea kohta lisandub 6 silmust või 4 silmust. Selle esimesega on selge, selline on nt Serenade rätik.
The shawl is finished. But there are some issues. I've learned something useful. Sickleshaped shawls are usually constructed so that per 2 rows there are 6 increases or 4 increases. With the former it is more or less clear, for instace, Serenade shawl is an example.

Kuidas aga viimasega? Siin oleneb palju lõngast, mahakudumisviisist ja pingutusest. Põhimõtteliselt võib saada ka kolmnurkse rätiku, millel on pikad otsad. Kui aga maha kududa hästi lõdvalt, on võimalik saada ka sirbikujulise, nagu on see rätik.
What about the latter? Here a lot depends on the yarn, bind off techniques and blockign. In principale one can get also a triangular shawl with long ends. If you bind off rather losely, it is possible to obtain a sickle shaped shawl like this one.

Mis on aga sirbikujulise ja eelmainitud kolmnurkne seos? Algus võib olla tõesti nurgeline. Vaadake seda pilti (Ravelryst).
What is the connection between sickle shaped shawl and the above mentioned triagular shawl? The beginning can be angular. Look at this picture (from Ravelry).

Miks siis minu mustjashall rätik on (peaaegu) ilma kühmuta? Lõng on meriino, väga pehme, samas raske, kude on lõtv (ripskude jämeda vardaga). Seekord aga juhtus nii, et kudusin valmis, pingutasin ja nägin, et kühmust ei pääsenud. Lõng on kerge, mohääri-villase segu, muster on labase koe põhine. Kuna mul on värviblokid, sain aru, kuidas saab ära parandada. Lõikasin ära algosa (seal, kus üks värv lõppes), panin vardale ja kudusin  paar rida teises suunas.
Why then my black-and-grey shawl is (almost) without the bump? The yarn is merino, very soft, yet heavy, and the fabric is loose (garter stitch with large needles). However, this time it occured that I blocked the shawl ad noticed that there is a bump. My yarn is a very light mohair-wool blend, the pattern is based on stockinette stitch. As my shawl is with colour blocks, I realized how to improve it. I cut of the beginning (the portion with the first colour) and knitted a couple of rows in the opposite direction.

 

 

 

Seega tuleb alustada suurema silmuste arvuga. Alustasingi järgmist niiviisi.
Thus, you have to start with a larger number of stitches. This is how I started a new one.

Loodetavasti saab varsti normaalseid pilte. Aga mees ütles juba, et rätik on hästi pehme ja ta tahab seda endale.
Hopefully, I will get normal pictures soon. But my husbad already said that the shawl was very warm and that he wanted it for himself.
Ravelry.

Mitu võimalust/Several options

Praegu näeb välja rätik nii.
This is how the shawl looks like as of today.

Saab juba korra ümber kaela keerata, aga otsad on veel lühikesed. Sellel pildil on umbes pool rätikut.
I can wind it once around my neck but the ends are still too short. The picture displays approximately a half of the shawl.

Lõnga on veel mingil määral. Kui otsa saab, plaanin võtta musta peenvillast, mis on enam-vähem sama jämedusega. Aga siis on kaks võimalust: kas jätkata sama kasvatuste rütmiga või tekitada lühikesi ridu, et pikendada otsi kiiremini. Võib teha nii ja naa. Eksperimendi puhtuse mõttes võiks jätkata samamoodi (ei, see ei ole sama kasvatuste skeem, nagu sellel ja sellel rätikul), aga lühikesed read oleksid huvitavamad.
I have a little bit more of this yarn. When I will run out of it, I will continue with black laceweight wool that is approximately of the same weight. Then there are two options: to continue the same system of increases or to make short rows in order to get longer ends faster. It is possible to do both ways. For the sake of purity of the experiment it is possible to continue in the same manner (no, this is not the same increase system as here and here), but short rows are more entertaining.

Kas läheb keerdu?/Is it going to be biased?

Suvel oli minu FB lehel arutelu, nimelt üks kuduja nägi seda pilti ja kirjutas oma sõbrannale, et näed, kui ringselt kududa, läheb kude alati keerdu. Vastasin lühidalt seal, aga arvan, et on põhjust kirjutada ka täpsemalt (selleks on blogi formaat sobivam). Seda enam, et ka tunnis minu käest küsitakse, kas ikka läheb keerdu/viltu.
This summer there was a discussion on my FB page: namely, one knitter saw this picture and wrote to her friend: see yourself, if you work in the round, the vabric is going to be biased. I gave a brief responce on my page but I believe that it woul be useful to write more on the subject (the blog format is better suited for this). Especially because in class I am often asked wether it is always biased.

Sellele küsimusele võib anda ettevaatliku vastuse: võib minna keerdu, aga ei pruugi. Seega väide, et ringselt kududes läheb alti keerdu, ei pea paika. Millal siis läheb keerdu? See sõltub neljast asjast: (1) lõngakeerd, (2) kiud, (3) muster, (4) diameeter. Alustan lõpust. See puudutab eelkõige labast kude ja väikest diameetri (varrukas). Mõnikord on nii, et kerel pole midagi näha, küll aga varrukal. Mis puutub punktidesse (1) ja (2), siis kõige tõenäolisem ajab keerdu tugeva keeruga puuvillane ja linane. Aga see pole jällegi universaalne reegel, oleneb konkreetsest lõngast. Veelgi rohkem: mõni lõng ei talu labast kude ka edasi-tagasi kududes (nt seda olen oma silmaga näinud Midara Linolo puhul). Aga vaatame pilte.
It is possible to give a cautious answer to the question: it can be biased but not necessarily. Thus, the claim that round knitting always causes bias, is not true. When it does get biased? It depends on four things: (1) twist, (2) fiber, (3) stitch pattern, (4) diametre. I will start from the end. It concerns mostly stockinete stitch and small diametre (sleeve). Sometimes it happens that there is no bias in the torso but there is one in the sleeve. As far as (1) and (2) are concerned, the most probable candidates for bias are cotton with a strong twist and linen. But this is not a universal rule, it depends on a particular yarn. Even more: some yarns do not tolerate stockinete even in back and forth kitting (I've witnessed this in Midara Linolo). Let us see some pictures.

Kollane sviiter on puuvillasest lõngast. Midagi pole viltu. Topp järgmisel pildil on paljudele tuttav, see on puuvillase ja sünteetika segu, samuti ei ole mingit probleemi.
The yellow sweater is from a cotton yarn. Nothing wrong. The top in the next picture is familiar to many readers, it is a cotton-nylon blend, no problem either.

Siin on aga ebaühtlase jämedusega lõng, ka pole midagi.
Here is a yarn that is uneven, no problems at all.

Siin on üks Kaksikutest, küljepilt. Koostis on mohäär, vill ja sünteetika.

Here is one of my Twins, a side view. The fiber composition is mohair, wool and some synthetic fiber.

Mida teha? Mitu võimalust. Valida mõni muu kude (nt parempidiste ja pahempidiste silmuste vaheldus, soonik, pits, palmikud). Teha külgedele sellised vertikaalsed triibud, nagu on näha halli Kaksiku pildil (võib olla ka palmik, väike pits vms). Teha ripsitriibud, nagu selle sviitri varrukatel (alumisel pildil). On ka selline nõks, mida kasutatakse lühendatud ridade kudumisel (nn wrap and turn), seda võib teha küljel, kus silmuse mähkimise koht pole nähtav (jällegi, küljel võib olla mõni väike triip pööramiskoha järel).

How to solve this? There ae several options. Pick up another stitch (alternation of kint and purl stitches, ribbing, lace, cables). Make some side patterns as you can see in the picture of the grey Twin (it can also be a narrow lace patter, a cable etc). Make stripes in reverse stockinet as in the sleeves in the picture below. There is also another tip: use wrap and turn (a short row technique). The turning point can be on the side where it is less visible (again, you can make a narrow stripe on the side after the turning point).