Reede, 31. mai 2013

Langevast kraest uuesti/Waterfall collar again

Mõni aeg tagasi kirjutasin langevast kraest (vt siin). Praegu tundub, et mul on tuju sellega tegelda. See top on puuvillast (Camilla by Madame Trictote, 50 g/123 m). Korralikud pildid tulemas.
Some time ago I wrote about waterfall collar (here). It appears I am inclined to explore it. This top is from cotton (Camilla by Madame Trictote, 50 g/123 m). Modelled pictures will appear shortly.

Mul tekkis mõte, et sellise krae kalukuleerimiseks võiks tuletada valemi. Nii et iga soovija saaks kududa oma lõngast, oma kudumistihedusega jms, opereerides valemiga. Ainuke nõue on, et kudumil oleks langevust (sobib puuvill, vill, viskoos, linane ja nende kõikvõimalikud segud jms). Plaanis on samas vaimus, aga ilmselt teistsuguse kahanduste paigutamisega top linase ja viskoosi segust. Seejärel panen kirja valemi ja hakkame Ravelrys katsetama.
It occured to me that in order to calculate such a collar, one can derive a formula. So that everyone could knit with any yarn, appropriate gauge etc, based on the formula. The only prerequisit is that the fabric should be draping nicely (consider cotton, wool, rayon, linen and blends thereof etc). The next thing would be a top in the same spirit but probably with a different placement of decreases, using linen and rayon blend. After that I will write the formula and we will start experimenting on Ravelry.

Kolmapäev, 29. mai 2013

Uuest konstruktsioonist/On a new construction

Paljudes õpetustes on ette nähtud n-ö längus õlad. Ka ülevalt alla kududes soovitatakse selleks kududa lühikesi ridu (Barbara Walker). Minu arust ei ole see üldse kohustuslik (koepind on elastsem, kui kangas, seab end kergesti keha järgi). Küll aga võivad längus õlad olla disaini element. Paljud ei armasta millegipärast lühikesi ridu, kuigi nendes pole midagi keerulist. Kuid teatavasti on laiskus progressi mootor ja ühest võimalusest kirjutasin kunagi siin. On aga veel üks võimalus, kus saab mängida kudumissuunaga.
Many patterns prescribe so-called slanted shoulders. Also in top down knitting short rows to achieve the slant are recommended (Barbara Walker). In my opinion, this is not obligatory (knitted fabric is more elastic than woven fabric and easily adjusts to the body shape). But slanted shoulders can be an element of design. For some reasons, many knitters dislike short rows, although there is nothing difficult in working them. However, as you all know, lazyness is a motor of progress and I discussed one option here. There is yet another option where you can play with the direction of knitting.
Niisiis, koome enne "õlapaelad", aga alustame kaelusest ja liigume õla poole (mustad nooled). Sellise kudumissuunaga ei ole vaja lühikesi ridu, teeme hoopis kahandusi äärtest. Tulemuseks on trapets.
So we knit "shoulder straps" first but start from the neck and work towards the shoulders (black arrows). With this direction of knitting, you don't need short rows but make decreases at the edges insted. What you obtain is a trapezium.

Kui õlg on kaetud, hakkame kuduma selja- ja esitükki. Võib kududa rignselt, aga jätan praegu selle võimaluse välja. Koome eraldi selja- ja eraldi esitüki, kui jõuame kaenlaaluseni, siis ühendame ja koome ringselt. Seega paneme trapetsid nii, nagu näidatud joonisel ja korjame üles silmused (punane nool paremal). Siis loome silmused (sinine nool) ja korjame üles silmused teise trapetsi külje silmused (punane nool vasakul). Nüüd on meil seljatüki silmused olemas, koome edasi-tagasi. Esitüki puhul toimime analoogselt: vasak roheline nool näitab, kust korjame üles silmused, kollane nool on loodavad silmused ja parem roheline nool näitab, kuhu liigume edasi. Kui pärast kokku murda, siis on näha, et õlajoon on pisut lähngus (alumine foto).
Once the shoulder is covered, we shall begin the back and the front piece. You can work in the round but I will not discuss this option now. We shall work back and front piece separately and once we will reach the underarms, we shall join the pieces and work in the round.  Thus, place the trapezium as shown in the picture and pick up stitches along the edge (the right red arrow). Then cast on stitches (blue arrow) and pick up stitches along the edge of the second trapezium (the left red arrow). Now we have all stitches for the back piece and we knit back and forth. The front piece is worked analogically: the left green arrow shows where the stitches should be picked up, the yellow arrow shows where to cast on stitches and the right green arrow shows how we procede. Once you fold the garment, you will see that the shoulder line is slightly slanted (the bottom photo).

Esmaspäev, 27. mai 2013

Külalisi ja sviitri pilte/Guests and some pictures of the sweater

Laupäeval käisid Tallinnas soome kudumissõbrad Mia ja Anne. Mia kirjeldab reisi oma blogis. Esialgu käisid nad lõngapoodides, hiljem kudusime koos. Arvasin, et uus sviiter sobiks Annele, pealegi meeldis talle äravõetav kaelus. Nii et sviiter jääb talle pärast seda, kui õpetus on valmis ja testitud. Anne ja Mia, suur tänu! Mia, tänan ka piltide eest!
This Saturday my Finnish knitting friends Mia and Anne visited Tallinn. Mia describes the trip on her blog. At first they went to yarn shops and then we knitted together. I thought the new sweater would look good on Anne, besides, she liked the cowl. So she will eventually get the sweater after the pattern will have been written and tested. Anne and Mia, thank you! Mia, thanks for the pictures! Kiitos!
Lõng/Yarn: Kauni (Aade Lõng) ühevärviline/solid ~ 140 g (sviiter/sweater); kontrastne + üleminekulõng/contrasting + variegated ~ 30 g (varrukad/sleeves), ~ 32 g (kaelus/cowl)
Vardad/Needles: 3,5 mm, 4 mm
Ravelry

Reede, 24. mai 2013

Kuivab/Drying

Sviiter on valmis, sellele lisaks on ka väike rõngassall, mida saab kanda kraena või hoopis eraldi. Värvid on enam-vähem õiged. Kui õnnestub, siis korralikke pilte näeme nädalavahaetusel.
The sweater is finished and there is a little cowl in addition that you can wear as a collar with the sweater or separately. The colours are more or less right. Maybe this weekend there will be proper pictures.
 

Teisipäev, 21. mai 2013

Varrukad/Sleeves

Üleminekulõng nõuab põhjalikku läbimõtlemist. Lisaks puhtpraktilistele seikadele, nt et varrukad peaksid olema ühesugused, lisanduvad disaineri maitsest johtuvad seikad. Kui teen midagi endale, siis olen värvidega üpris ettevaatlik. Paistab, et antud juhul leidsin lahenduse, kõikvõimalikud värvivaheldused on varruka alumises osas.
Variegated yarns demand thorough planning. In addition to purely practical issues such as having both sleeves identical, certain issues come up due to a designer's personal taste. If I am making something for myself, I am rather cautious about colours. It appears that this time I found a solution where all kind of colour alternations are in the lower part of the sleeve.

Pühapäev, 19. mai 2013

Rätik ja sviiter/A shawl and a sweater

Näitan tütre rätikut. Maret tegi mõned kenad pildid. Värv on enam-vähem õige. Aitäh, Maret! Viimane pilt on minu tehtud.
Here is my daughter's shawl. Maret took some nice pictures. The colour is more or less right. Thanks, Maret! The last picture is by myself.
Lõng/Yarn: Louet Gems Fingering (merino, 50 g/400 m), ~300 g
Vardad/Needles: 4,5 mm
Ravelry
Ja veel üks asi, vist pole siin näidanud seda sviitrit (Ave pildistatud). Õpetus tuleb SKD Yarns firmale, parajasti seda testitakse. SKD-l on oma rühm Ravelrys ja lehekülg Pinterestis.
And one more thing, I probably have not shown this sweater (photo by Ave). The pattern will be for SKD Yarns, it is currently being tested. SKD has a group on Ravelry and a page on Pinterest.
Üks testija, Helin, on eriti nobe ja eile pildistasime ka tema sviitri (Mareti pildid). Aitäh, Helin ja Maret!
One of the testers, Helin, has been exceptionally swift and yesterday we took pictures of her sweater (pictures by Maret). Thanks, Helin and Maret!

Neljapäev, 16. mai 2013

Rätik/Shawl

Näitan rätikut, mis on juba tükk aega valmis. Huvilistele annan teada, et tütre rätik on samuti valmis ja kuivab, aga sellest räägime järgmine kord. Helin, tänan piltide eest!
Here is a shawl I've finished some time ago. For those who are interested in my daughter's shawl, I am letting you know that it is finished as well and drying but we shall talk about it another time. Helin, thanks for the pictures!
Lõng/Yarn: Kauni Effekt 8/2 (Aade Lõng 8/2), 100 g/400 m, ~ 200 g
Vardad/Neeldes: 3,5 mm, 4 mm
Ravelry

Teisipäev, 14. mai 2013

Uusi lõngu/New yarns

Kunagi sain Ravelrys tuttavaks Aljonaga. Ta elab Valgevenes ja koob üsna produktiivselt. Ta on korduvalt testinud minu õpetusi, eriti meeldib talle kududa rätikuid ja salle. Nüüd on  Tallinnas kaks toredat noort daami, tema sõbrad. Ta saatis mulle nendega  lõngu kingituseks. Selliseid värve ei oska ma korralikult pildistada. Must ja bordoo on mohäär, rohekas-hall on tegelikult tumedam ja punane on punasem (selline metsmarja punane). Kaks viimast on pitsilõngad. Suur tänu, Aljona!
Some time ago I got acquaitnetd with Alyona on Ravelry. She lives in Belarus and is a prolific knitter. She has repeatedly tested my patterns and she is especially fond of knitting shawls and scarves. Now two charming young ladies, her friends, came to visit Tallinn. She sent with them some yarns as a gift for me. I am unable to capture such colours. Black and purple are mohairs, the greenish-grey yarn is darker in reality and the red one is more red (a kind of forest berry red). The two latter yarns are lace yarns. Many thanks, Alyona!
Tütre rätik edeneb. Koon juba äärepitsi. See tuleb suhteliselt võrguline.
The daughters shawl is progressing. I am knitting the border lace now. It will be somewhat net-like.

Laupäev, 11. mai 2013

Uuesti algusesse/Starting all over again

Nagu mainisin, ma ei karda üldse harutamist. Sai harutatud, nüüd alsutasin uuesti ja kootud on juba päris palju.
As I mentioned, I am not scared of ripping. I ripped and started all over again and aleady have a substantial portion.
Küll mulle meeldib see muster!
I am seriously liking the stitch pattern!

Neljapäev, 9. mai 2013

Ikka valesti/It has gone all wrong

Nagu selgub, ei taha see muster n-ö alustamist. Avastasin väikse vea, mõtlesin, et harutan paar rida. Võtsin juba üsna suure rätiku varrastelt ära ja nägin, et alguse juures on ikka nurk vales kohas. Paistab, et esimene algus tipust oli õigem. Nii et pole midagi, harutan ja alustan uuesti.
As it becomes apparent, this stitch pattern does not want starting from the neck, so to say. I discovered a minor mistake and decided to frog a couple of rows. I took the shawl that has quite grown from the needles and noticed that there is an angle in the beginning at a wrong place. It appears that the first beginning (from the tip) was better, after all. So I see no options here, I will rip it and start all over again.
Ma ei tee harutamisest probleemi, pole midagi hullu. Igal juhul olen midagi õppinud.
I am not problematizing ripping, nothing extraordinary here. In any case, I have learned something.

Esmaspäev, 6. mai 2013

Päris algus/A real beginning

Viimases postituses näitasin proovilappi. Kudusin veel mõnda aega ja siis sain aru, et tahaks n-ö kaelast kootavat rätikut. Siin on pilt. Praegu on kõik kortsus ja rätikuhakatis on veidra kujuga, sest mustris on palju soonikut, aga loodan, et pärast pesemist ja pingutamist on korras.
I showed a swatch in the previous post. I worked it a little further and then realize that I would like a shawl that is worked from the neck, so to say. Here is a picture. Everything is creased right now and the shawl-to-be has a strange shape because the stitch has a lot of ribbing but I hope that after washing and blocking it will be fine.

Laupäev, 4. mai 2013

Rätik tütrele/A shawl for my daughter

Kunagi oli meil Dianaga lõngavahetus. Saatsin talle leedu linast, tema aga mulle Louet meriinot. Tütrele meeldis värv ja ta tellis endale kolmnurkse rätiku. Ühe olen just lõpetanud (sellest hiljem), nüüd mõtlesin välja, millise teen tütrele. Siin on väike proovilapp.
Sometimes ago Diana and I had a yarn exchange. I sent her some Lithuanian linen and she sent me Louet merino. My daughter loved the colour and ordered a triangluar shawl. I've just finished one (will talk about it later) and now got an idea what to make for her. Here is a little swatch.
Tegelikkuses on värv rohelisem. Reljeefne kude sobib lõngale hästi.
In reality, the colour is more greenish. The textured pattern goes well with the yarn.

Kolmapäev, 1. mai 2013

Üht ja teist/Various matters

BFL-sviitri õpetus on nüüd kättesaadav Ravelrys. Veel kord tänan kõiki testijaid! Muster sobib praktlilselt igale lõngale ja on hea valik, kui ei taha kududa labases koes, aga pitsimustrid, palmikud jms ei sobi. Tuletan meelde, mis sviiter see on.
The BFL-sweater pattern is now available on Ravelry. Thanks to all the testers once more! The stitch pattern is suitable practically for any yarn and is a good choice if you don't want to work in stockinette, yet lace, cables and the like do not fit in. Here is a reminder what sweater we are talking about.
Tulemas on veel õpetusi, praegu annan teada niipalju, et parajasti testitakse minu disainitud sviitrit eesti villasest (Aade Lõng/Kauni) firmale SKD Yarns. Lõpuks veel üks asi: täna sain meeldiva üllatuse osaliseks. Mulle tehakse väiekst reklaami selles saksakeelses blogis, juttu on ka nn waterfall-kraest. Selle konstruktsiooni juurde tulen veel kindlasti tagasi.
There will be more patterns coming soon; for now I let you know that a sweater designed by me from Estonian wool (Aade Lõng/Kauni) for SKD Yarns is being currently tested. Finally, one more thing: I was pleasantly surprised today. I got a kind of promotion on this German-language blog, and waterfall-collar is mentioned there, too. I will certainly come back to this construction.