Sirgest varrukast/On straight sleeve

Lõppude lõpuks, lubatud postitus sirgest varrukast. Alguses tundub, et mis siin ikka, see on lihtne asi, korja silmused üles ja muudkui koo ringselt edasi.
Finally, the promised post on straight sleeve. In the beginning it seems that there is nothing special about it, it is a straightforward thing, just pick up stitches and knit away in the round. 

Siin on mitu asja. Kui kude on auguline, pitsimustriga, reljeefne, siis ehk ongi nii lihtne. Tõsi küll, patent ja poolpatent võib olla kapriisne ja nõuda teistsugust proportsiooni (s.o. üles korjata mitte 1 s iga 2 rea kohta, vaid midagi muud). Aga labasel koel on selline omadus, et ringsel kudumisel on koetihedus oluliselt erinev; enamikul on tihedam (kuigi tean üht inimest, kellel on vastupidine lugu). See toimub sellepärast, et me ei koo pahempidiseid silmuseid, pahempidine (vähemalt klassikaliselt kootud) on aga lõdvem, kui parempidine. Eriti oluline on, et varrukal on väike diameeter, seetõttu võib kude olla veel tihkem.
There are several things here. If the fabric is with eyelets, lace or textured pattern, then it may be straightforward indeed. Well, patent and half-patent may be moody and demand a different proportion for picking up stitches (not 1 st per 2 rows but something else). But stockinette has this feature that, when worked in the round, the gauge may be substantially different; the majority of knitters have a tighter gauge (although I know one person for whom it is vise versa). This happens because we do not work purl stitches and purl stitches (at least, if you use the classical ones) are looser than knit stitches. It is especially important that the sleeve has a small diameter and this may make the gauge even tighter.

Aga asi ei piirdu sellega. Kui varrukas on traditsiooniline, kaarega, siis arvestame, et labase parempidise koe jaoks on vaja jämedamat varrast (vähemalt 0,5 numbri võrra, mõnikord lausa 1 numbri võrra, oleneb lõngast). Kui aga varrukakaar puudub, siis tõmbab varrukas kogu käeaugu väiksemaks. See ongi see oluline seik madala õlajoone ja sirge varruka puhul. Seetõttu tuleb käeaugud kududa laiemaks kui muidu. Selga proovides võibki olla 3-4 cm laiem, kui muidu.
But this is not all. When you have a traditional sleeve with a cap, then you know you would need thicker neeldes for stockinette (at least 0.5 size up or sometimes even 1 size up, depends on the yarn). However, when the sleeve has no cap, the sleeve makes the armhole tighter. This is the important issue about low shoulderline and straigth sleeve. For this reason you have to knit wider armholes than otherwise. When you try on, it could be 3-4 cm wider than in general.

See on üks tellimus, puuvillane sviiter, üsna lai (ümbermõõt 120 cm). Lõng on Capri (G-B Wolle), 100 % puuvill, 50 g/155 m. Väga hea lõng, kahju ainult, et värvivalik jätab soovida. Vardad 3,5 mm ja 4 mm.
This is an order, a rather wide (circumference 120 cm) cotton sweater. The yarn is Capri (by G-B Wolle), 100 % cotton, 50 g/155 m. It is a very nice yarn, the only thing is that the colour choice is poor. Needles 3.5 and 4 mm.

Mõlemad sviitrid/Both sweaters

Niisiis, mõlemad sviitrid. Kristiina, suur tänu piltide eest!
So here they come, both sweaters. Kristiina, many thanks for the pictures!

 

 

Lõng/Yarn: Bella (Alize), 100 % puuvill/cotton, 50 g/180 m, ~ 800 m.
Vardad/Neeldes: 3,5 mm, 4 mm.
Ravelry
Ja teine:
And the second one:

 

 

 

Lõng/Yarn: mohäär/mohair, ~ 25 g/250 m (60 g); Haapsalu (Midara), 100 % vill/wool, 100 g/1400 m (45 g).
Vardad/Neeldes: 4 mm, 4,5 mm, 5 mm.
Ravelry.

Vahepeal/Meanwhile

Vahepeal astusin Domus Linum poest läbi, kui seal oli hästi palju turiste. Mõni hakkas vaatama sealseid kudumeid, küsis õpetusi jms. Perenaine Külli pakkus siis minu raamatut, nii et sain autogramme jagada (Külli foto).
Meanwhile I popped into Domus Linum shop when there was a huge crowd of tourist. Some of them examined the sample knits there and asked about patterns etc. Külli, the owner, showed them my book, so I got a chance to sign some copies (photo by Külli).

Vahepeal sai valmis mohäärisviiter. Varsti panen üles n-ö ametlikud pildid.
Meanwhile I finished my mohair sweater. I will soon upload official pictures, so to say.

 

 

Jälle sirge varrukas. Mul on meeles, et lubasin sellest kirjutada. Kui korralikud pildid olemas, siis tuleb postitus.
Straight sleeve again. I remember my promis to write about it. Once I will have upladed proper photos, there will be a post.

Tellimus/Order

Mõnikord tellitakse midagi ka. Alustasin jakki niisuguse mustriga, nagu minu Lemmikjakk.
Sometimes I get orders. I started a cardi with the pattern like in my Lemmikjakk.

Ainult lõngakombinatsioon on teistsugune: Angora 2 ja Haapsalu (peenvillane 100 g/1400 m). Tegin ka teise kalkulatsiooni, muster on hõlpsasti kohandatav. Vardad 4,5 mm.
But the yarn combination is different here: Angora 2 and Haapsalu (laceweight wool 100 g/1400 m). I made a different calculation, too; the stitch is easily adjustable. Needles 4.5 mm.

Siin on seljatükk, esitükid on ka olemas, aga pean praegu vahet, sest enne ühendamist peaks tellija selga proovima. Seda saan teha alles esmaspäeval. Niikaua tegelen muude asjadega.
Here is the back piece and I already have the front pieces but I have to put it on hold now because before joining I need my client to try it on. I will have a chance to do this as late as Monday. Meanwhile I will do other things.

Viltu/Biased

Seda ei juhtu tihti, aga mõne lõnga puhul kisub labane kude viltu. Eriti on näha siis, kui on väike diameeter ja koome ringselt, nt varruka puhul.
It does not happen often but certain yarn make stockinette stitch biased. It is especially visible if you have a small diametre and work in the round like sleeves, for instance.

Ega seda ei näe, kui ei tea. Külli tegi sviitrist paar pilti (aitäh!), aga siis jõudsin koju ja mõtlesin, et tuleb kindlasti ümber teha. Viltune koepind oli märgatav küünarnukist allapoole.
You don't notice it if you don't know. Külli took some pictures (thank you) but later I got home and decided that I certainly have to  rework. Biased fabric was visible below the elbow.

 

 

 On paar nõksu, kuidas kududa ringselt labases koes nii, et ei läheks viltu. Ringi lõpus tuleb  n-ö mähkida järgmine silmus ja siis keerata töö ja kududa pahempidi pahemal pool jne. Aga see sobib peenikese või koheva lõnga puhul. Võib kududa soonikut, ripsi jms, aga soonik ei sobinud sinna ja ripsi osa oleks siis liiga pikk (pole võimatu, aga antud juhul tundus ülearune).
There are some tricks how to knit in the round in stockinete so that there is no bias. Once the round is completed, you have so to say to wrap the next stitch and turn your work and purl on the wrong side to the end etc. But this works with thin or fluffy yarn. You can make ribbing or garter stitch but ribbing is not suitable here and the garter section would be too long (not impossible but it seemed too much in this case).

Nagu näete, tegin 1 rida ph, 5 rida pp. Vähemalt pealtnäha ei ole enam nii hull.
As you can see, it is p 1 row, k 5 rows. At least it does not look so bad.

Loodetavasti saab kunagi korralikult pildistada mu seljas.
I hope there will be normal modelled photos some time later.

Reisikudum/Travel knitting

Mis kudum sobib reisi peale kaasa võtta? Mõni ütleb, et midagi niisugust, mida ei peaks selga proovima (rätik, sall) või midagi väikest (kindad, sokid). Minu meelest võib olla midagi kerget ja midagi sellist, mille puhul oled kindel.
What kind of knit is good for travel? Some would say it shoudl be something that you don't have to try on (shawl, scarf) or something small (mittens, socks). I think it should be something light and something you are confident about.

Sviiter mohäärist ja peenvillasest. Mohäär on siit, peenvillane on Haapsalu (Midara), 100 g/1400 m. Samas postituses räägin ka sviitrist.
A sweater from mohair and laceweight wool. The mohair is from here and the wool is Haapsalu (by Midara), 100 g/1400 m. I disucss the sweater in the mentioned post.

Veel mitte päriselt valmis/Not yet completely finished

Tegelikult sviiter on valmis kootud, aga pole jõudnud veel niisutada, ära kuivatada ja otsad ära peita. Olen välismaal, hotellitoas on väga kehv pildistada.
Actually the sweater is completed but I have not had time to mositen and to dry it and to weave in the ends. I am abroad and it is quite tedious to take photos in this hotel room. 

Varrukas on sirge. Jällegi on siin nii-öelda kimono erijuhtum (pisut kahandusi kaenla all). Hiljem kirjutan mõnest olulisest seigast niisuguse varruka tüübi puhul.
The sleeve is straight. This is so to say a particular case of kimono once again (some decreases under arms). I will write later about some relevant points for this type of sleeve.

Kartsin, et mul ei jätku lõnga. Jäi hoopis üle üks terve tokk ja veel natuke. Nii et kulus vähem kui 4 tokki (720 m).
I was afraid I would run out of yarn. Instead, I have a whole spare ball plus some leftovers. So I used up less than 4 balls (720 m).

Peenike puuvillane/Thin cotton

Kahjuks on meil väga vähe peenikest puuvillast. Rääkimata mingist segust. Peenike puuvillane on tihti mõeldud heegeldamiseks ja on väga tugeva keeruga. Aga tahaks midagi sokilõnga jämeduses või sinnapoole. Alize Bella on 50 g/180 m. Üsna pehme, olekult sarnaneb Midara Amberiga (vt siin). Eestis on aga tihti vaja vahepealseid kudumeid: pika varrukaga, aga mitte väga sooje. Nii et teen praegu üsna lihtsat sviitrit.
Unfortunately, we have very few kinds of thin cotton. To say nothing about cotton blends. Thin cotton is often manufactured fore crocheting and has quite a strong twist. I would like something in the weight of sock yarns or similar. Alize Bella is 50 g/180 m. Quite soft with a character similar to that of Amber by Midara (see here). In Estonia, you often need in-between knits: long sleeved but not very warm. So I am making a rather simple sweater.

Hotelli toa valguses on üsna raske pildistada. Ega siin midagi erilist pole: labane parempidine, õlgadel rips, külgedel rips, madal õlg.
It is quite impossible to take pictures in the light of my hotel room. But there is nothing fancy here: stockinette, garter stitch on the shoulders and on the sides, low shoulder line.

Nüüd koon alla, varrukad on valmis.
I am working downwards now, the sleeves are finished.

Linane sall valmis/Linen scarf is finished

Muidugi linane lõng + auguline muster tähendab, et sall venib pikkusesse, aga see pole probleem. Kulus 80 grammi (40 g kumbagi värvi).
Of course, linen + mesh pattern means that the scarf stretches in length but it is not a problem. I used up 80 g (40 of each colour).

Modelliks on Külli. Õpetus ilmub loodetavasti järgmises Käsitöös (augustis). Aga mõne võrgulise rätiku õpetuse teen ka Ravelry jaoks.
Külli is modelling. The pattern will probably appear in the next issue of Käsitöö (in August). But I will write a pattern for one of my mesh shawls for Ravelry, too.

Sokilõngasall/Scarf from sock yarns

Näitan salli pilte. Helin, tänan! Eestis on teatavasti nii, et juunis võib olla külmem, kui mais (eriti jaanipäeva paiku). Näiteks täna on mul mohäärisviiter seljas ja õue minnes panin selle salli kaela, väga paras.
Here are some pictures of my scarf. Helin, thank you! It is a usual thing in Estonia that June may be cooler than May (especially around Midsummer Day). For instance, today I am wearing a mohair sweater and I put this scraf on when I went out.

 

Et pikkusest oleks aru saada.
So that you can imagine the length.

 

 

Lõng/Yarn: Fabel (Drops), ~ 30 g, Sprint (G-B Wolle), ~ 73 g
Vardad/Needles: 5 mm
Ravelry

Ainult üks pilt/Only one picture

Jälle linane.
Linen again.

Võrgulistele sallidele ei ole lõppu näha/No end to mesh scarves

Kuna tahtsin jääkidest lahti saada, siis leidsin, et võrgulise mustriga sall sobib. Kirjutasin sellest siin. Nüüd on sall valmis.
Since I wanted to get rid of yarn leftovers, I decided that a mesh-pattern scarf is suitable for this. I wrote here on this topic. Now the scarf is finished.

Siin on näha, et must osa on lühem. Aga see pole oluline, sest kui panna kasvõi kord ümber kaela, pole vahe nähtav.
Here you can see that the black part is shorter. But this is not important because when you wind it even once around your neck, the difference is invisible.

Sall kaalub 102 g, seega kulus pisut rohkem, kui 2 tokki.
The scarf weighs approximately 102 g, thus, I used up slightly more than 2 balls.

 

Kuigi sokilõngas on polüamiidi vms, venis sall pikkusesse üsna palju, sest muster on auguline.
Although the sock yarn contains polyamide or similar fibers, the scarf has stretched in the length quite a bit because the pattern has eyelets.

Erijuhtum-3/Particular case no 3

Jätkame sama konstruktsiooniga (kimono erijuhtumiga). Lõnga jäi üle poolpatendis topist. Pildid: Kristiina Varrone. Suur tänu!
We continue with the same construction (a particular case of kimono). I had a lot of yarn remaining from the top in half-patent stitch. Pics by Kristiina Varrone. Many thanks!

 

 

 

 

Lõng/Yarn: Camilla (Madame Tricote), 100 %  puuvill/cotton, 50 g/125 m, ~ 570 m
Vardad/Neeldes: 3,5 mm
Ravelry

Lõngajäägid/Yarn leftovers

Ega siin pole midagi uut, on sokilõngu, natuke musta ja rohkem tumehalli.
Nothing new here, I have sock yarns, a little bit of black and some more grey.

 

Koon jämeda vardaga 5 mm, et oleks õhuline koepind. Must on Fabel (Drops) ja tumehall on Sprint (G-B Wolle).
I am kniting with 5 mm needles to obtain an airy fabric. The black one is Fabel (Drops) and the grey one is Sprint (G-B Wolle).