Jälle "Kontrastne"/"Contrasting" again

On alati huvitav jälgida, kuidas kudumisõpetusi tõlgendatakse. Muidugi võib lihtsalt kopeerida, aga minu jaoks on alati huvitav tõlgendus. Seda enam, et antud juhul seletasin kudumi nime ja tegin paar ettepanekut, kuidas toimida. Mul endal on kontrast kere ja krae faktuuride vahel, värv on enam-vähem sama, aga võib valida ka erinevaid värve.
It is always interesting to keep track on various interpretations of a pattern. Of course one may just copy but for me it is the interpretation that is most intrigueing. Especially given the fact that I explained the name of the pattern and made some suggestions. My own top has a contrast between the fabrics of the torso and the collar, while the colour is more or less the same; for sure, one can choose different colours as well.

See Inga variant meeldib mulle väga. Rohkem pilte on tema enda blogis siin. Aitäh, Inga!
I like qutie a lot this version by Inga. There are more pictures on her blog here. Thank you, Inga!

Oversized kudumid/Oversized knits

See postitus on juba hulk aega plaanis. Sain materjali kogutud, vesteldud mitme kudujaga, vaadatud pilte. Miks selline teema? Sellepärast, et sain aru, et mulle oversized riided ei sobi. Siis tekkis tahtmine mõista, miks nii. Olen korduvalt kirjutanud, et minu jaoks on alati oluline n-ö diagnoos ja seletus. Jutt tuleb üsna pikk, varuge kannatust. Kõik pildid on internetist (v.a. minu sinise sviitri pilt).
This post has been on my mind for a while. I have collected material, talked to several knitters, examined pictures. Why this topic? Because I realized that oversized clothes do not agree with me. Then it felt like getting to the bottom of it, why so. I have repeatedly written that for me it is crucial to diagnose, so to say, and to find an explanation. This is a long story, so please bear with me. All pictures are from internet (except for the pic of my blue sweater).

Stiil tuleb seest. Kes ma olen, mida tahan enda kohta öelda (või mida varjata, ütlemata jätta jms). Teine küsimus, kas soovitud mulje on saavutatud, s. o. kas minu "koodi" mõistetakse ikka nii, nagu ise seda plaanisin. Näiteks, keegi tahab jätta endast soliidse mulje, kuid mõne valearvestuse tõttu ja teatud välimuse parameetrite tõttu on üldmulje "igav". Kirjutan jutumärkides, sest riideese või kudum ei ole igav iseenesest, vaid konkreetses kontekstis (vt siin).
Style comes from within. Who I am, what I want to say about myself (or to conceal, to understate, for that matter). Another question is, whether one succeeds in conveying the wished message, that is, whether my "code" is understood in the way I meant. For instance, one wants to give an impression of a serious, respectable person but due to some miscalculations and some parametres of one's apperance the general impression is "borring". I am writing this in quotation marks because a garment or a knit is not borring in and by itself but under specific circumstances (see here).

Oversized tundus mulle sümpaatne. Aga siin tuleb olla ettevaatlik, sest korralikel piltidel on alati kooskõla modelli, riiete ja üldstilistika vahel: pildil on sümpaatne, aga pole üldse selge, kas endale sobib. Selle juurde, miks oversized on mulle sümpaatne, tulen veel tagasi. Esialgu polnud põhjus üldse selge.
Oversized appealed to me. But here one should be careful because in decent modelled pictures there is always harmony between the model, clothes and a general style: the picture is attractive but it is not at all clear whether it suits you. I will come back to why I liked overisize. In the beginning the reason was not clear.

Mul oli selge, et väga suur, piltlikult öeldes, padjapüür 70 cm x 70 cm mulle ei sobi, aga nt 55 cm laiusega? Või 60 cm? Vaatame seda minu sviitrit. Pilt meeldib paljudele. Ise küsimus, kas niisugust asja lugeda oversized'iks. On justkui kena, aga mitte ideaalne..
It was clear to me from the beginning that a very roomy thing, so to say, a pillowcase 70 cm x 70 cm does not suit me. What about 55 cm width? Or 60 cm? Have a look at this sweater of mine. The picture is liked by many. Whether it qualifies as oversized, is another question. It is a kind of nice but not ideal.

Siis proovisin poes mitmeid kudumeid, võtsin oversized XS suuruses, ikka pole õige. Sain aru, et pole "minu oma". Hakkasin küsima, kuidas tuttavad kudujad suhtuvad sellesse. Suurem osa arvas, et on hea kududa ja ka kanda. Mõni ise ei kanna, aga koob hea meelega nt oma lastele. Mõnel on mõni oversized kudum, mis tundub mugav, aga pole erilist tahtmist neid massiliselt kududa. Veel oli arvamus, et sobib igale figuurile. Sellega on muidugi teatud probleem, sest asi pole ainult laiuses, vaid üldproportsioonides ka. Võib olla massiivne, aga pikk ja lame. Mõnel võib olla sama rinnaümbermõõt, kuid hoopis teine figuur. Nii et universaalset retsepti ei ole (minu arust väitesse, et asi/värv/lõige X sobib kõigile, tuleb suhtuda ettevaatlikult).
Then I kept trying on various knits, I took oversized in XS but this did not feel right either. I realized that it is not "mine". I asked my knitting friends about their attitudes to oversized knits. The majority believed that it is good to wear and to knit them. Some do not wear but knit to their children with pleasure. Some have a couple of oversized knits that are comfortable to wear but do not wish to knit them on a massive scale. There was also an opinion that oversized garments fit any shape and figure. There is a certain problem here because it is not only about the width but about general proportions. One can be of a powerful build but tall and flat-chested. Another person has the same chest circumference but a different shape. So there are no universal rules (in my view, tone should be cautions with claims like "X-thing/shape/colour suits all").

Hakkasin vaatama Pinterestis oversized kudumite pilte. Mul on kaustas Inspiration suur hulk selliseid. Nüüd tuleb see koht, kus räägime assotsiatsioonidest. Millega seostub oversized? Pinterestis peab piltidele kirjutama märksõnu. Kirjutan märksõnu tavaliselt kudumise seisukohalt (nt lihtne soonikus raglaan vms). Kuid paljud kirjeldavad nn kvalitatiivsete adjektiividega: armas, mugav, elegantne, ilus, hubane, kodune. Ükskord nägin järjest pilte, kus märksõnad olid "cozy", "comfy" jms. Ja siis taipasin! Oversized võib olla muidugi ka midagi muud kui kodune (vt alumine pilt), aga mina küll ei kirjeldaks end ja oma stiili  sõnadega "hubane", "mugav", "kodune". Ma ei näe ennast nii. Kui mulle selga tõmmata oversized asi, siis valgun laiali, mind pole näha. Veel hiljem sain aru, et see, mis mind köitis, on lihtsus. Aga lihtsus ei ole alati üks ja sama. Lihtsus võib kalduda tõesti mugavuse ja hubasuse suunas, aga ka sportlikkuse suunas (jälle pole minu rida). Minu lihtsuse liik on midagi muud.
I started looking oversized knits on Pinterest. I have a board called Insperation with quite a few of these. Let us return to associations here. What kind of associations oversized garments arise? One has to write comments and keywords to one's pictures on Pinterest. Usually I write something knitting related (for exampe, a simple ribbed raglan sweater etc). But many describe their pins with so-called qualitative adjectives: lovely, comfortable, elegant,  beautiful, cozy, homey. Ones I saw several pictures one after another with the keywords "cozy", "comfy". And then I got it! Oversized can be something different than homey (see picture below) but I would never describe myself or my style with the words "cozy", "comfy", "homey". I don't see myself in this way. If I am dressed in oversized things, I sort of melt away. Later I understood that the thing that attracted me was simplicity. But simplicity is not the same in all contexts. In some cases it may lean towards comfort and cozyness or towards sport-inspired styles (not my cup of tea either). My simplicity is something  else.

Vestlesin sel teemal Maijaga (ta on stilist Moskvast ja olen teda varemgi maininud; koos ühe teise stilistiga arendab ta praegu intuitiivse riietumise kontseptsiooni). Saatsin talle paar pilti. Ta arvas, et see küll pole "minu" oma. Mitte selles mõttes, nagu, ütleme, pastellvärvid ei ole kontrastse "talve" värvid, vaid ei ole minu stiili ja olekuga kooskõlas, kuigi figuuri järgi võiks sobida. Niisiis, mõnikord lihtsus = hubasus, mõnikord aga lihtsus = selge struktuur ja kuju. Minu riietel peab olema selge struktuur. See ei tähenda, et kõik peab olema liibuv, aga vorm peaks olema konkreetne ja miski peab kogu pilti koos hoidma. Te võite öelda, et liiga keeruline ja kas seda arutlust oli üldse vaja. Minu meelest on mul endal ikka vaja, asjad on nüüd palju selgemad.
I discussed it with Maya (she is a stylist from Moscow and I have mentioned her earlier; together with another stylist she has been working on the concept of intuitive dressing). I sent her a couple of pictures. She belived this was not "me". Not in the sense like, say, indefinite soft colours are not for a contrasting Winter but in the sense that this is at odds with my style and how I am, although everything fits the body. So in some cases simple = cozy and in others simplicity = clear structure and shape. My clothes should be structured. It does not think that everything should be with a negative ease but the shape should be concrete and something has to hold everything together. You may say that it is all too complicated and maybe this kind of deliberation was not needed at all. In my view, I really needed this because now the things are much more clear.

Hommikused pildid/Morning pictures

Tegin pildid erinevas valguses. Üks varrukas on juba jõudnud küünarnukist allapoole, täna jõuan ilmselt lõpetada ja alustada teist.
I took photos in different kinds of ligth. One sleeve is already reaching over the elbow and today I will probably manage to finish it and to start the other.

 

 

Kõige alumisel pildil on ehk kõige õigem värv.
Perhaps the most realistic rendition of the colour is in the bottom picture.

Pole aega kirjutada/No time to blog

Sellepärast tuleb lühike postitus. Sviiter edeneb aeglaselt, aga probleeme pole. Tuleb mõelda, mis lõngu edaspidi omavahel kombineerida. Meelde tuleb see pood Vilniuses. Plaanis on ka teoreetiline positus oversized kudumitest. Mõni aeg tagasi tegin väikse küsitluse FB-s. Kui on huvi, võite vastata, kogun arvamusi.
This is why this post is short. The sweater is progressing slowly but unproblematically. I have to think about future combinations of different yarns. This reminds me of this shop in Vilnius. I am also planning a theoretical post about oversized knits. Some time ago I organized a little survey on FB. If you want, please answer, I am collecting opinions.

Seiklusi/Adventures

Hakkasin kuduma sviitrit punase peenikese meriino-seguse lõnga ja musta mohääri kombinatsioonist. Esialgu oli plaanis nahkhiir. Kudusin ja kudusin, siis tekkis kahtlus. Harutasin üsna palju, proovisin uutmoodi. Siis ühendasin kaenla all ja vaatasin, et asi pole õige. Nahkhiire "materjal" peaks olema õhuke ja langev. No ei taha need lõngad nahkhiireks saada! Vaatasin veel proovilappi. Minu puhul üldse töötab reegel "mida lihtsam, seda parem" (küsimus on muidugi selles, mis sellisena kvalifitseerub, aga see on juba teine teema). Antud juhul on aga lihtne tõesti kõige parem. Koepind on eriline, ei ole vaja seda koormata erilise siluetiga. Nii et pärast seiklusi alustasin uuesti ja nüüd tundub, et asi edeneb.
I started knitting a sweater from the combination of red merino-blend and black mohair. At first I planned a dolman sleeve sweater. I knitted on and on and then I started doubting. I ripped quite a lot and tried in a different way. I joined underarms and then realized that this does not look right to me. The "fabric" for a dolman sleeve sweater should be thin and draping. And these yarns just do not want to become a dolman sleeve sweater! I examined the swatch once more. In my case there is a general principle "the simpler, the better" (the question is, of course, what can be qualified as such but this is a different topic). In this case the simplest is really the best. The fabric is special enough and there is no reason to overload it by adding a special shape like dolman sleeve. So after some adventures I started all over again and it is wokring, presumably.

Õige värv on ülemisel pildil.
The top picture demonstrates the true colour.

Veel üks lisandus. Nagu mäletate (kui ei mäleta, vaadake ülal antud linki), oli mul kaks proovilappi, esimene oli kahest võrdväärsest lõngast. Kui laupäeval poes kudumas käisin, siis oli proovilapp täiesti kuiv ja lõng oli pärast pesu nii-öelda paisunud, nii et tundus isegi lausa tihke (minu maitse järgi, sest teatavasti mulle ei meeldi väga tihke kude, kui me ei räägi kinnastest ja sokkidest). Nii et kududes tundus, et 3 mm varras on kõige jämedam, mida võib antud juhul kasutada, aga nüüd ütleks, et 3,5 mm või isegi 4 mm oleks parem. Pange tähele, proovilapp pole veninud, vaid on muutunud tihkemaks.
And some additional information. As you may remember (if not, please follow the link provided above), I had two swatches and the first was from two yarns of equal weight and yardage. When I went to the store for our knitting together last Saturday, the swatch had driied and the yarn had become swallen, so to say, so the swatched seemed rather dense to me (in my view, of course, because I don't like too dense a fabric, if we are not talking about socks and mittens). So while I was knitting the swath, I thought 3 mm is the thickest needle these yarns can tolerate but now I would say that 3.5 or even 4 mm would be much better. Please note that the swatch has not stretched but has become tighter.

Pole pildistajat/No photographer

... ja sellepärast on praegu sellised pildid.
... and that is why only these pics for now.

 

Hea just praegu kanda, kui on ebamäärane ilm. Midagi on seljas, aga pole hirmus soe.
It is good for wearing now in this in-between weather. You have something on that is not too warm.

Kuivab/Drying

Kudum kuivab. Raske on pildistada, sest koepind on pisut karvane. Mustriga olen rahul, vaatame nüüd, kuidas mulle sobib.
The knit is drying. It is difficult to take pictures because the fabric is slightly fluffy. I like the stitch pattern and we shall see how it suits me.