Ambivalentne-2/Ambivalent Vol.2

Paistab, et igaüks näeb asja erinevalt (vt eelmine postitus). Sain kaks kommentaari ja kummalgi kommenteerijal oli oma lähtepunkt: kas üldine ettekujutus, mis sobiks mehele või naisele või lähtudest oma kehakujust. Esimest mustrit tunnistati jõuliseks, võib-olla pigem mehele sobivaks, aga üldiselt üsna riskantseks, kuna see lisab volüümi. Selle kohta ütleksin, et muidugi liibuvat sviitrit selle mustriga ei kooks (kui, siis ainult peenemast lõngast; võib-olla annaks mohäär hoopis teistsugust efekti). Aga avar jakk või kardigan, s.o. midagi, mis on eest lahti, on täiesti võimalik. Olen üles otsinud vastava pildi. Sellele modellile sobib. Enda puhul tahaks ilmselt suuremat kraed.
It seems that everyone sees the issue differently (see the previous post). I've received two comments and each of them has a different approach: a general idea what would suit a man or a woman or what would look good on a particular body shape. The first pattern was recognized as dynamic and, probably, more suitable for a man, but also tricky because it adds bulk to the body. I would add that, apparently, I would not knit a negative-ease sweater with this pattern (or only with a thin yarn; probably, mohair would yield a completely diffrent effect). But a loose jacket or cardigan, that is, something open in the front, would be quite possible. I've found a picture to demonstrate it. Looks good on this model. I would probably want a bigger collar if I knitted this for myself.

Teine muster peeti üsna õrnaks. Tegelikult oleneb lõngast. Allolevad pildid näitavad selle mustri modifikatsiooni: sama põhimõte, ainult esimeses postituses näidatud mustri puhul tõstetakse üks silmus ja all olevatel piltidel mitu. Sarnase põhimõttega muster ei ole välistatud ka meeste kudumitel, nagu näiteks siin (jällegi, ei pruugi kõigile sobida, aga võimatu pole). Või Dropsi mudeli pilt (keskmine muster):
The second pattern was claimed to be rather delicate. In reality, it depends on the yarn. The pictures below demonstrate a modification of the pattern: the principle is the same, only that the pattern I showed in the previous post has one stitch crossed and here several stitches are crossed. Patterns based on the principle cannot be outruled for men's knitwear, as shown here (of course, this is not for everybody but not impossible). Or the sweater by Drops (central pattern):

 

Kolmanda mustri puhul oli üldine arvamus, et sobiks mõlemale, ainult et see võib muuta keha optiliselt massiivsemaks. Arvan, et sõltub jällegi lõngast ja kehakujust. Tuleb jälgida, et muster "ei sööks ära" kandjat (s.o. eelkõige näeme kudumit ja alles siis inimest, aga peaks olema vastupidi).
As far as the third pattern is concerned, the general opinion was that it suits both but again it can add bulk to the body. I think that again it depends on yarn and body shape. It has to be observed that the pattern would not "eat up" the model (that is, when the first thing we notice is the knit and only then the wearer, although it should be the other way round).

Ambivalentne/Ambivalent

Mind huvitavad mustrid, mis sobiksid nii meeste, kui naiste kudumitele. Muidugi sõltub kõik konkreetsest kandjast, stiilist, kehakujust jne. Aga mulle sobiksid sellised ambivalentsed kudumid küll. Labane parem- ja pahempidine kude on selge juhtum, samuti mitmesugused soonikud ja palmikud. Olen viimasel ajal vaadanud mustreid just selle pilguga. Panen siia paar pilti. Kui teil on mõtteid, hea meelega loeksin, kommenteerige!
I am interested in stitch patterns that are suitable both for women's and men's knits. Of course everything depends on a particular person, style, body shape etc. But I think such ambivalent knits would look fine on me. Stockinette and reverse stockinette is a clear case, as well as various ribbings and cables. Recently I've been looking at stitch patterns from this angle. I am adding a couple of pictures. If you have ideas, I would be glad to read your comments!

Üks trikk/A trick

Paljudel kudujatel on ringselt kududes labane parempidine kude tihkem, kui edasi-tagasi kududes. Seda sellepärast, et paljudel on pahempidine silmus parempidisest lõdvem, aga ringselt kududes ei koo pahempidiseid, kui tahame labast parempidist. Eriti lööb see välja väikse diameetri puhul (varrukad). Muidugi oleneb ka lõngast ja "käekirjast". Reljeefsete ja pitsiliste mustrite puhul ei ole vahet (vähemalt endal puhul ei ole märganud). Seetõttu on nii, et paljudes õpetustes, kus on põhikude labane parempidine, soovitan olla valmis selleks, et kui esi- ja seljatükk on ühendatud, tuleb võtta 0,5 numbri võrra jämedamad vardad. Aga mis toimub, kui osa mustrist on labane parempidine ja teine osa on augulised horisontaalsed triibud?
Many knitters have a tighter gauge when working stockinette in the round than when knitting back and forth. This is because many work purl stitches looser than knit stitches and when working in the round you don't purl to get stockinette. It is especially visible when you have a small diameter (sleeves). Of course, everything depends on the yarn and "handwriting". There is no such differnce in textured and lace patterns (at least, I have not noticed it in my own knitting). For this reason in many patterns with stockinette I always advice to be ready to go up 0.5 needle size once back and front piece have been joined. But what happens when partly you have stockinette and the other part is eyelet horisontal stripes?

Antud juhul pidin toimima nii. Edasi-tagasi kudusin 3 mm vardaga, pärast ühendamist 3,5 mm vardaga, kuid augulised reas jälle 3 mm vardaga, muidu vahe tundus väga märgatav. Huvitav, kuidas on teistel kudujatel. Käekiri on tõesti individuaalne.
In this case I had to do the following. When working back and forth, I used 3 mm needles and after joining the pieces I switched to 3.5 mm and then back to 3 mm for the eyelet rows, otherwise the difference would be rather visible. I wonder how it is with other knitters. Handwriting is really idividual.

Vihje/A glimpse

Ma ei saa praegu avaldada, mida koon, selline oli kokkulepe. Isegi värvi ma praegu ei paljasta, nii et pilt on must-valge. Praegu tuleb hulk sellist "salakudumist", seetõttu olen napisõnaline.
I cannot reveal now what I am working on because of the agreement. I cannot even show the colour, so the picture is black and white. There will be quite a lot of such "secret knitting" and, therefore, I am not telling much.

Kaelus ja varrukad/Neck opening and sleeves

Mõnikord ei ole üldse mingi küsimus, kuidas viimistleda varrukaid. Tihtilugu on kõige lihtsam variant ühtlasi kõige parem.
Sometimes it is quite clear how to finish sleeves. Quite often the easiest option is the best one.

Jälle faktuurist/On texture again

Kavatsesin kirjutada jälle faktuuridest ja eile sattusin ühe vene päritolu ameerika stilisti sellisele postitusele (vene keeles). Mistõttu mõtlesin, et pean kirjutama pisut teistsuguse rõhuasetusega, mitte nii, nagu algselt kavatsesin. Kui vene keeles ei loe, pole midagi, seletan ära. Idee on see, et jämeda tekstuuriga reljeefne sviiter kanda kalliskivide jms ehetega. Nii et tuleb pikk tekst.
At first I was planning to write about texture but I came across this post by a Russian-origin American stylist (in Russian). Therefore, I decided to write from a slightly different angle and not as initially intended. If you don't read Russian, no problem, I will explain. The idea is to combine textured chunky sweaters with fine jewelry (precious stones etc). So get ready for a lengthy text.
Pean ütlema, et selle stilisti maitse on minu omast üpris erinev. Pole hea ega paha, lihtsalt erinev. Tavaliselt loen tema postitusi hea meelega, et järele mõelda. Antud juhul on teema väga tänuväärne. Rubriigi nimi on "Why it works": stilist analüüsib, miks mõni ootamatu kombinatsioon on hea (tihti saadavad lugejad vastavaid küsimusi). Selline lähenemine arendab tohutult; püüan alati niiviisi arutleda ka oma kudumite üle (samuti on oluline diagnoosida, miks mõni asi ei tööta).
I have to say that our tastes are rather different. Nor good neither bad, just different. Usually I read her posts with pleasure in order to think over. In this case the topic is very promising. The rubric is called Why it works: the stylist analyzes why a certain paradoxical combination looks good (often readers request explanations of this kind). Such an approach is quite productive and develops your thinking; I always try to ponder in this way also about my own knitting (it is important to diagnose, too, why some things do not work).
Ta räägib moeajaloost ja sellest, et kootud sviitri saatus on muutlik: kord on see au sees, kord jälle kaob poodiumilt mõneks ajaks, aga pole hullu, mood peegeldab meelsust ja seda "teab iga viienda klassi õpilane" (omalt polt lisan, et oleks hea, kui tõesti teaks). Kui kehaehitus lubab, siis võib kanda ka suuri pakse sviitreid. Kui aga keha pole miniatuurne, soovitab ta mõelda materjalist ja eelistada kašmiiri, siis pole palmikud jms nii väga paksud (erinevalt akrüülist sviitritest). Aga kašmiirist sviitrite hind võib olla lausa neljakohaline number. Mida teha? Ta soovitab otsida internetipoodidest, e-bayst ja kaasata "neid, kes koovad". See aga puudutab meid, sõbrad.
She talks about fashion history and about changing status of sweaters: sometimes it is in vouge and sometimes it disappears from the catwalk but this is not new because fashion is a reflection of the state of mind and "every fifth-grade child knows this" (I would add, it would be nice if it were really so). If your body shape allows, you can wear also thick and chunky sweaters. If you are not very slender, she recommends paying attention to the fibers and to pefer cashmere because in that case cables etc do not look very plump (differently from acrylic sweaters). But what should one do if we are talking four figures prices in the case of real chasmere? She sends us to e-bay or to "those who knit". This is about us, my friends.

Ma ei ole kunagi kudunud kašmiiri ja ausalt öeldes ei tunne vajadust selle järele. Hea meriino võiks olla alternatiiv. Võib eksperimenteerida villaga, nt panna peenike vill mohääriga kokku, kohe on kude faktuurne. Veel on olemas selline tore asi nagu pseudopalmikud (need, kes ei koo, peavad palmikuteks, kuid tehniliselt pole palmikud).
I have never worked with cahsmere and, frankly speaking, don't feel like doing this. Some good merino will do the job. Or you can experiment with wool, for instance, add mohair to thin wool and the fabric gets more texture. And there exists such a nice thing like mock cables (those who do not knit, often take them for cables, which, technically speaking, they are not).

Isiklikult ei näe ma vastuolu jämedakoeliste sviitrite ja ehete vahel. Reeglid reegliteks, kuid stiil ei lähtu tingimata reeglitest ega ainult välisparameetritest (kehakuju, juuste ja silmade värv jms), vaid seest. Ma ei arutaks kulda ega pärle (miski neist pole "minu oma", seetõttu ei oska midagi öelda; pärl on üldse väga kapriisne asi ja erinevalt levinud arvamusest, sobib väga vähestele). Aga hõbe ja üldse ilma kivideta metall, suured ja markantsed ehted sobivad küll.
Personally I don't see any contradiction between chunky sweaters and jewelry. Rules is one thing but style is not only about rules or your external characteristics (body shape, colour of your hair and eyes etc) but from within. I would rather not talk about gold and pearls (neither of them is "mine" and, therefore, I cannot say anything about them; pearls are very tricky and, contrary to general opinion, suit very few people). But silver and metal without stones in general or large and noticeable jewlery would do.

Küsimus on ka selles, mida taotleda. Postituses esitatud Vogue'i kaanepilt loob üsna eklektilise mulje: palmikutega sviiter ja palju väga erinevas stiilis ehteid. Minu arust "it does not work" sellel konkreetsel juhul, sest on liiga palju ülearust, ehted "vaidlevad" omavahel. Ka eklektikas peaks olema midagi, mis seda mitmekesisust koos hoiab.
The question is also about what you are trying to say. The Vogue picture in the post gives one a rather eclectic impression: a sweater with cables and a lot of jewelry rather different in style. In my opinion, this particular example "does not work" because there is a lot of redundant things and the pieces of jewelry "argue" with each other. Also eclectis shoud have a something that holds together all the diversity.
Niisiis, kas taotleda kontrasti (paks sviiter - õbluke keha - õrnad ehted) või taotleda jõulisust (paks sviiter - kehakuju pole oluline, loevad proportsioonid ja reljeefse mustri valik - jõulised ehted)? Võimalik, et on veel teisi kombinatsioone.
Thus, ask yourself, whether you are out for contrast (bulky sweater - tiny body - elaborated jewelry) or rather for a dynamic, strong presentation (damn, I am really unable to pick up a suitable equivalent for the Estonian word 'jõuline') (bulky sweatery - whatever body shape, just think about proportions and about the choice of stitch pattern - large jewelry). Maybe there are other options, too.
Lõpuks selline pilt (Maiyet, sügistalv 2013-2014). Sviiter pole väga reljeefne, aga siiski mitte õhuke. Hea idee üleminekuga värvitud lõngadest (Aade Lõng jms). Ja ehe, mis sobib sinna päris hästi.
Finally, have a look at the picture (Maiyet, Autumn-Witner 2013-2014). The sweater is not very chunky but not thin either. It is a good idea for variegated yarns (Aade Lõng etc). And the necklace that goes quite well with it.

Natuke plaanidest ja üks piilukas ka/Something about plans and a sneak pic, too

Plaanis on üks postitus faktuuridest ja nende valikust. Kunagi arutlesin sellel teemal, nüüd tahaks jälle selle juurde pöörduda.
I am planning another post about textures and choice thereof. Once I wrote on the topic and now I would like to come back to it.

Pildi kohta veel niipalju, et kiidan jälle Dropsi Fabeli lõnga. See sokilõng on peenike, sobib mitmesugusteks mustriteks (soonik, pits, rips jne).
Just some words about the picture: I am praising again Fabel by Drops. It is a thin sock yarn, suitable for different sitch patterns (ribbing, lace, garter stitch etc).

Ainult üks pilt/Just one picture

Kuna ma ei saa näidata kudumit tervikuna, näitan väikest osa.
As I cannot show the entire project, I am demonstrating a part of it.

Järgmine kudum tuleb sellest lõngast (nüüd on postituses 2 fotot ja mitte 1!).
The next knit will be from this yarn (now there are 2 picture in the post and not 1!).

Külalisi Soomest/Guests from Finland

Täna üle hulga aja olid Tallinnas Mia, Helena ja Tuija. Hommikul käisid nad lõngapoodides, siis saime kokku ja kudusime koos. Pildil vasakult paremale istuvad Tuija, Mia ja Helena.
Today after a long break Mia, Helena and Tuija arrived to Tallinn. They visited yarn stores in the morning and then we met and knitted together. From left to right: Tuija, Mia and Helena.

 

Ise olin pildistajaks ja mind esindab poolik kudum laual.

I was taking pictures and am represented by the work in progress on the table.

Linane lõng Klaipėdast/Linen from Klaipėda

Pärlist ja Lõngast saab nüüd leedu linast lõnga. Aga mitte seda Biržais asuva vabriku oma, mida tavaliselt ostan Mezgimo zona poest Vilniusest (vabriku koduleht), vaid hoopis Klaipėdast. Seda toodab Limageda-nimeline vabrik.

Now linen is available at Pärl ja Lõng yarn store. This is not the linen produced by the factory in Biržai I usually buy at Mezgimo zona in Vilnius (the factory site) but produced in Klaipėda by Limageda factory.

Värvid on õiged, välja arvatud türkiisid. Vasakpoolne on tegelikult rohelisem ja parempoolne sinisem. Lõnga on keritud 3-, 4- ja 5-kordselt. See linane on peenem Biržai vabriku omast. Värve pidi olema rohkem, nii et ootame.
The colours are quite true except for turquoise. The left one is greener and the right one is bluer. The yarn is available in 3-, 4- and 5-ply version. This linen is thinner than that of Biržai factory. They say there are more colours, so let us wait.

Tuttav lõng ja tuttav muster/Familiar yarn and familiar pattern

Mis puutub eelmise postituse teemasse, siis otsustasin, et võtan endale mõtlemisaega. Kaldun arvama, et pigem harutan ja teen midagi uut. Aga nüüd on kiire mitmesuguse uue asjaga. Praegu ei saa avalikult rääkida, näitan ainult, mis lõnga ja mis mustriga on tegemist.
As far as the topic of the previous post is concerned, I decided to take time to think it over. I am inclined to think that I'd rather frog and make something entirely new. But right now I am in a hurry with several new topics. I cannot talk about it openly and will just show what yarn and what pattern it is about.

Pange tähele, et kuigi lõng on must värvi, releefne muster on hästi selge.
Take a look: although the yarn is black, the textured pattern is rather clear.

Ikka pole kindel/ I am still not sure

Sviiter on valmis, muster on kena, aga ma ikka pole kindel, kas see on minu asi. Proovisin selga, pole viga, siiski ei ole veel aru saanud, kas need triibud on vajalikud.
The sweater is finished, the stitch pattern looks nice but I am still not sure whether it is my thing. I tried it on, no problems, but I have not yet arrived to the final conclusion whether the stripes are necessary. 

 

Näen kolme võimalust: 1) jätta, nagu on (juhul, kui otsustan, et sobib); 2) harutada täiesti ja teha midagi muud; 3) harutada kuni kaenlaalusteni ja jätkata ripskoes.
I see three options: 1) to leave as it is (in the event I decide the sweater suits me); 2) to frog entirely and to knit something different; 3) to frog to the armholes and to continue in garter stitch.

Juhuslikult öeldud lause polegi nii juhuslik/Casually uttered words are not so casual after all

Kuna Pärl ja Lõngad poes müüakse nüüd eesti Aade Lõnga ja leedu Teksrena villast, tõin selle sviitri näitama Mallele, kes seal töötab (sviitri kohta siin).
As Pärl ja Lõngad yarn store has Estonian Aade Lõng and Lithuanian Teksrena wool, I brought this sweater to show to Malle who works there (more on this sweater here).

Kui olin sviitri kotist võtnud, ütlesin sellise lause: sviiter on mittemidagiütlev, aga minu seljas ongi mittemidagiütlevad asjad just kõige paremad, siis nad ütlevad midagi. Ütlesin seda täitsa automaatselt, siis hiljem sain aru, et see on just väga täpne. Samal teemal, aga pisut teise nurga all, lugege siin.
After I had produced the sweater from the bag, I said the following: the sweater is plain (literally, in Estonian it sounds: telling nothing) but such plain things are best for me to wear because in that case they do tell something. I uttered this quite automatically and then later realized that this is exactly to the point. More on this topic (although from a slightly different angle) here.

Varrukas ripskoes/Sleeve in garter stitch

Mõne kudumiga on nii, et on kohe selge, milline näeb välja lõpptulemus. Mõnega on aga nii, et tegemise tuleb muutusi (vt. eelmine postitus) ja pärast mitmeid ümbertegemisi ikka ei ole kindel. Mul oli valik, kas kududa varrukad labases parempidises või ripskoes, otsustasin ripsi kasuks, alguses polnud selge, kuidas on, aga nüüd sain juba selga proovida ja näen, et see on õige otsus.
In some cases it is clear from the beginning how the final result will look. Yet in other cases there ara plenty of changes as you go (see the previous post) and then after several attempts you cannot be sure. I had a choice whether to make the sleeves in stockintette stitch or in garter stitch, and I opted for the latter, not being sure in the beginning whether I was right but after trying it on I realize it was a right decision.

Võimalik, et niisuguse pildi järgi ei ole veel võimalik midagi väita, kuid selga pannes nägin, et see on hea variant. Välistasin kohe võimaluse kududa varrukad reljeefse triibuga, sest tundus, et siis oleks liiga juhuslik (s.o. esimesena pähetulev) variant.
It is possible that based on such a picture my decision is not obvious but after trying it on I saw it was a good option. Already in the beginning I excluded the possibility of knitting sleeves in the same kind of textured stripes because it seemd it would be too obvious (that is, a default) option.