Plaan muutub kogu aeg/Plans keep changing all the time

Esialgu oli mul plaan ära kasutada tumesinise Jili jääk. Hankisin juurde paar lõnga, mõtlesin, et teen rätiku või salli. Üks on sünteetika ja mohääri segu ja teine on selline lõng (sokilõnga koostisega, aga pisut jämedam, 50 g/150 m). Selle ostsin Maiu soovitusel, on tõepoolest üsna hea.
At first I had a plan to use up the leftovers of navy blue Jil. I got a couple of yarns to add to it and tought to make a shawl or a scarf. One of them is polyamide-mohair blend and the other one is this (fiber composition is like in sock yarns but slightly thicker, 50 g/150 m). I bought it on Maiu's recommendation and it is quite nice indeed.

Siis nägin, et Jiliga ei lähe hästi kokku (jämeduse vahe pole nii suur, aga see sõltub alati konkreetsest lõngast). Mõtlesin siis veel ühte mustrit, aga see ei töötanud, tundus liiga kohev. Eks jääb mõne peenikese lõnga tarvis. Proovisin nii ja naa, lõpuks jäin selle juurde. On natuke Kruiisirätiku moodi, aga siiski teistsuguse mustriga. Hiljem tuleb teine lõng..
Then I ralized that it does not fit together with Jil (the difference in weight is not so big but whether the yarn go well together, depends on the particular yarns). Then I considered another pattern but it did not work, it came out too fluffy. I will use it with some thinner yarn. I tried various things and then opted for this. Looks a little bit like my Cruise shawl but still with a different pattern. Later I will switch to another yarn.

Eks vaatame. Lähen reisile, rätik on hea reisikudum. Nädala jooksul ei pruugi ma postitada kuigi tihti. Võib-olla jääb kuduaasta ülevaade järgmisesse aastasse.
We shall see. I am going to travel and a shawl is a good travel knit. It is possible that I will not post often for a week or so. Maybe a summary of the current knitting year will appear early next year.

Sviitrid/The sweaters

Nüüd must sviiter on valmis ja pildistasin koos tema kaksikuga. Kaksikud pole siiski identsed.
Now the black sweater is finished and I photographed it together with its twin. Still, the twins are not identical.

Kaelust kujundasin ja viimistlesin pisut teisiti (vahe pole nähtav).
I shaped the neck opening and made the finishing in a slightly different way (the difference is not visible).

Põhidetailid, nagu varruka "õmblus", küljemuster vms on samad.
The principle details like the sleeve "seam", stitch patten on the side etc are the same.

Kõige ülemises fotos näete, et must sviiter on pisut pikem, seda tegin meelega.
You can see in the very first picture that the black sweater is slightly longer, I made this on purpose.

Varrukad on ka pisut pikemad.
The sleeves are slightly longer, too.

Jälle sama lugu/The same story all over again

Musti ja halle sviitreid pole kunagi liiga palju. Eriti lemmiklõngadest. Mõne kudumiga on nii, et küll on ilus ja sobiv, aga millegipärast ei kanna. Mõnega on jällegi nii, et kannad kogu aeg ja tahad korrata (teise lõngaga, teist värvi vms). Hall sviiter, mida pole siiamaani saanud pildistada minu seljas, on just selline. Mis muud kui teha must!
Never too many black or grey sweaters. Especially from favourite yarns. Some knits turn out nice and fit well but for some reason do not get much wear. In contrast, some get a lot of wear and you want to repeat (in a diffirent yarn, another colour etc). The grey sweater that has not yet got properly photographed is one in this category. No doubt I have to make a black one!

Nagu näete, jälle sirge varrukas, käeaugul on 2 ääresilmust ripskoes. Kui varruka silmused on üles korjatud, siis on üks rida pahempidi. Võrreldes halli sviitriga on paar väga pisikest muudatust.
As you can see, again the sleeve is straight, the armhole has 2 stitches in garter stitch. Once the sleeve stitches had been picked up, I purled one row. Compared to the grey sweater, there is a couple of rather minor modifications.

Sallid/Scarves

Roheline sall on ka valmis. Huvitav, et see venis pärast nisutust pikkusesse, sinine aga mitte. Sama lõng, sama tihedus, sama muster, sama varda number. Ainult erinevad värvid. Jil (G-B Wolle) on vist selline ettearvamatu lõng, kududa on meeldiv, aga kuidas pärast käitub, pole teada, olen seda ka varem kuulnud.
The green scarf is finished. Interestingly, after moistening it stretched in the length, whereas the blue one did not. Same yarn, same gauge, same pattern, same needles. Only the colours are different. Probably, Jil (G-B Wolle) is an unpredictable yarn, it is pleasant to knit but there is no way to know how it behaves later on; I've heard this before.

 

 

 

Kuna roheline oli liiga pikk, harutasin ära umbes toki jagu (50 g/125 m). Huvitav oleks proovida ka õhulisemast lõngast jämedama vardaga.
Because the green scarf was too long, I had to rip the amont of approximately one ball (50 g/125 m). It would be nice to try the pattern in a more airy yarn with larger needes.
Ravelry

Tublite kudujate sviitreid/Some sweaters by fine knitters

Facebookis koome ripsiga poolpatentkoes sviitreid minu retsepti järgi. Kolmel kudujal on valmis ja pildid on ka olemas. Esimene on Kaja, lõngad on Angora 2 ja Mirco (see on Midara peenvillane).
On Facebook we are knitting sweater in garter and half-patent stitch according to my pattern recipe. Three knitters have completed and there are pictures, too. The first one is by Kaja, her yarns are Angora 2 and Micro (another laceweight wool by Midara).

Selle sviitri tegi valmis Maarja. Lõng on Aade Lõng 8/1 ja DLY7 (puuvillane). Kõlab nagu ootamatu kombinatsioon, aga alati tasub järgi proovida. Viimases tunnis nägin poolikut sviitrit ja koepind oli kena. Viimistletud ja pestud sviiter on kindlasti veel ilusam.
This sweater was knitted by Maarja. The yarns are Aade Lõng 8/1 and DLY7 (cotton). It sounds as a slightly unexpected combination but it is always worth trying and finding out. In our last class I saw the sweater still on the needles and the fabric was nice. Of course, after finishing and washing the sweater is even more pretty.

Kolmas on Leili oma. Modellil on kaelas ka tuttav rätik (poolpatentkoes, Ravelrys oli sügisel kooskudumine). Sviitri lõngad on bambus (ei tea, kelle toodang) ja Haapsalu (Midara peenvillane).
The thrid one is by Leili.  The model is also wearing a familiar shawl (in half-patent sitch; there was a KAL on Ravelry this Autumn). The sweater yarns are bamboo (don't know the manufacturer) and Haapsalu (laceweight wool by Midara).

Siit järeldus: kombineerida ja kartmatult järele proovida
The conclusion is: to combine and to try without fear.

Nüüd roheline/Now a green one

Koon kingituseks samasugust salli, nagu see, ainult et seekord tuleb pikem ja tumeroheline.
I am making the same scarf for a present as this one but this time it will be longer and dark green.

 

Veel üks teade neile, kes Facebooki ei loe. Mul tuleb lühike kursus Tartus sel kevadel, rohkem infot siin.
Some information for those who do not read Facebook. I will teach a short course in Tartu this spring, more details here.

Veel mõned pildid/Some pictures more

Ei õnnestu kõiki kudumeid kohe pildistada. Anniki tegi rätikust pildi, tänan!. Tegin veel paar klõpsu juurde. Loodetavasti saab kunagi korraliku fotosessiooni teha. Rätik on väga lihtne, värvikombinatsioon töötab minu meelest.
No chance to  have all knits immediately photoraphed. Anniki took a picture of the shawl, thank you! I made some shots today. Hopefully, there will be a proper photosession. The shawl is very simple and, to my mind, the colour combination works all right.

 

 

Ruttu pildistama/Take a photo quickly

...kuna varsti läheb pimedaks ja siis on juba hilja.
... because it will be dark very soon and then it will be too late.

Kaelus on viimistletud.
The neck opening is completed.

Kõik nagu ikka: poolpatent läheb üle ripsiga soonikuks.
Everything as usual: half-brioche turns into broken rib.

Sokilõngadest rääkides, meeldib mulle Fabel (Drops) ja Hot Socks (Gründl) rohkem, kui see lõng.  Aga samas võiks proovida teinekord lisada siia midagi, nt peenikest mohääri või peenvillast.
Talking about sock yarns, I like Fabel (Drops) and Hot Socks (Gründl) better than this yarn. Still, another time I could try combining it with something, for instance with thin mohair or laceweight wool.

Varrukas/The sleeve

Alustasin varrukat eile. Kuigi see lõng on sama metraažiga, nagu sokilõngad ikka, ja koostis on ka tüüpiline, on kudumistihedus pisut erinev eri firmade lõnga puhul. Varruka pikkus nõuab rohkem ridu, kui halli sviitri puhul.
I started the sleeve yesterday. Although the yarn has a metrage like sock yarns do and the fiber composition is quite typical, the gaugue differs a bit for yarns by different manufacturers. The sleeve requires more rows than in the case of the grey sweater.

 

Täna tunnis/Today in class

Täna tunnis räägime natuke kraedest.
Today in class we shall talk a little bit about collars.

Arutame ka, mis kellelgi käsil on. Annan teada, et kevadel õpetan Tartu Rahvaülikoolis. Kuupäevad selguvad peatselt.
We shall also talk about who kints what. And this is to inform you that in Spring I will teach at Tartu Folk University. The dates will be agreed soon.

Plaanid ja tegelikkus/Plans and reality

Plaan oli see, et koon tütrele sviitri, mis oleks põhiliselt nagu see, ainult et tumesinine, keskel oleks mingi pseudopalmik ja külgedel väike muster. Samas, nagu ütlen alati, lõng on otsustav, lõng dikteerib. Antud juhul sokilõng ei tahtnud mingeid mustreid. Poolpatent, patent, ripsiga poolpatent jms sobib väga kenasti, aga mitte midagi muud. Otsustasime, et las olla siis sama, nagu hall, aga tumesinine. Küllap saab teisest lõngast teha ka mustriga.
The plan was to make for my daughter a sweter that would be basically like this one but dark blue with a mock-cable panel in the middle and narrow patterns on the sides. Still, as I always tend to say, the yarn is decisive, the yarn dictaes everything. In this case the sockyarn did not want any patterns. Half-biroche, brioche, half-brioche with gater stitch etc are suitable but not much else. We decided that this sweater would be like the grey one, only that it is dark blue. Sure I can make another one with patterns from a different yarn.

 

Pilte/Some pictures

Sain rätiku eile hommikul valmis, niisutasin, panin kuivama. Kui õhtul koju jõudsin, oli küll kuiv, aga pildistada enam ei saanud, päev on lühike. Tegin nüüd paar pilti maja ees.
I finished the shawl yesterday in the morning, made it wet and put to dry. When I returned home in the evening, it had dried but it was impossible to take pictures, as the day is shot. I took a couple of pictures in front our house.

Mul oli 4 puuvillast: Drops Loves You 6 (50 g/120 m), Drops Loves You 7 (50 g/170 m), Capri (Steinbach Wolle, 50 g/120 m) ja Camilla (Madame Tricote, 50 g/120 m). Mõnda sorti oli natuke alla ja mõnda natuke üle 1 toki. Peenemale (DLY7-le) lisasin tumehalli peenvillast Haapsalu (Midara, 100 g/1400 m).
I had 4 kinds of cotton: Drops Loves You 6 (50 g/120 m), Drops Loves You 7 (50 g/170 m), Capri (Steinbach Wolle, 50 g/120 m) and Camilla (Madame Tricote, 50 g/120 m). The quantity of some sorts was slightly less and of some slightly more than one ball. I added to the thin cotton (DLY7-le) some dark grey laceweight wool Haapsalu (Midara, 100 g/1400 m).

Alustasin DLY6-st (tumehall), siis võtsin DLY7 ja Haapsalu segu (tekkis mustjashall sektsioon), siis Capri, siis Camilla. Viimased olid mõlemad mustad.
I started with DLY6 (dark grey), then I used DLY7 and Haapsalu blend (got a black-grey section), then I took Capri and then Camilla. The latter two were both black.

Kude on hästi reljeefne. Mees võttis rätiku kohe kasutusele. Ütles, et pole liiga suur ega pikk.
The stitch has a nice definition. My husband immediately appropriated it. He said it was not too large neither too long.

Üht ja teist/Various matters

Käisin lühidalt Londonis. Seal polnud mul aega käia lõngapoodides või kohtuda teiste kudujatega. Küll aga nägin Pret a Manger ketti kuuluvas kohvikus niisugust pilti (võib suurendada ja teksti lugeda). Kas seda võib tõlgendada nii, et käsitsi tehtud kudum on autentsuse võrdkuju?
I had a short trip to London. I did not have time to visit yarn stores nor to meet other knitters. However, I saw this picture in a  café belonging to the Pret a Manger chain (you can click on the picture and read the text). Can one iterpret it so that a hand-knitted item is a hallmark of authenticity?

Sall on valmis. Hakkas just lund sadama (valged jooned pildil).
The scarf is finished. It has just started to snow (white lines in the picture).

 

Pahem pool pole sugugi paha.
There is nothing wrong with the wrong side.

Kombineerime lõngu/Combining yarns

Tumesinine sall sai valmis. Lõpetasin just enne reisi. Teatavasti on hea reisikudum selline, mida pole vaja selga proovida jms. Tegelikult lihtne sviiter sobib ka, aga siis on hea siiski alustada kodus kiirustamata (v.a. juhtumid, kui on juba tuntud mall ja lõng). Mõtlesin, et võiks teha puuvillase jääkidest rätiku.
The dark blue scarf is done. I finished it exactly before my trip. As it is known, a good travel knit is smoething you don't have to try on. Actually, a simple sweater is good too but it is still better to start at home without hurry (except when the model and the yarn are familiar). I thought I could make a scarf from cotton leftovers.

Mul on tumehalli ja musta jämeduses 50 g/120-130 m ja peenemat musta 50 g/160-170 m. Otsustasin, et peenemale mustale läheb kaaslaseks tumehall peenvillane (Midara Haapsalu, 100 g/1400 m). Nõnda on jämedus enam-vähem sama ja saab tekitada üleminekuid.
I have dark grey and black cotton 50 g/120-130 m and black cotton in lighter weight 50 g/160-170 m. I decided to put together the thin black cotton and dark grey laceweight wool (Haapsalu by Midara, 100 g/1400 m). In this way the weight is more or less imilar and it is possible to make gradient colours.

Alustasin tumehallist, nüüd on käsil musta ja tumehalli segu. Lõpuks koon musta puuvillast.
I started with dark grey and now I have black combined with dark grey. Finally, I will turn to the black cotton.

 

Mall on sama, viltune kolmnurk poolpatentkoes.
The pattern is the same, biased triangle in half-brioche stitch.

Jälle sallist/Again about the scarf

Mõni aeg tagasi näitasin alustatud salli. Kõik oli tore, muster meeldis, ainult et olles mõnda aega kudunud, veendusin, et on liiga lai. Muidugi on võimalik luua vähem mustrikordi. Kuid kui mustrikord on suhteliselt lai (10 s + 5 s sümmeetria jaoks), siis on oht, et laius on kas liiga suur või liiga väike. Võib mängida ka mustrikorra laiusega, nt 14 s + 7 s sümmeetria jaoks, aga see ei andnud erilist tulemust. Ja 6 s + 3 sümmeetria jaoks ei tundunud kuigi huvitav. Mida teha?
Some time ago I showed a scarf I started. Everything seemed fine, I liked the stitch pattern but after having knitted for a while I realised it was too broad. Of course it is possible to cast on fewer pattern repeats. But if a pattern repeat is relatively broad (10 sts + 5 sts for symmetry), there is a risk that the scarf would be either too narrow or too wide. One can play with the pattern repeat width (14 sts + 7 sts for symmetry. And 6 sts + 3 sts for symmetry did not look good. What should be done?

Lahendus oli lihtne: võtta jämedamad vardad. 3,5 mm vardaga kududes tundus, et on üsna tihke kude. Sall pole sokk ega kinnas, ei pea väga tihke olema. Nii et võtsin 4 mm vardad ja nii lihtne see oligi.
The solution was simple: to take thicker needles. While working with 3.5 mm needles it seemed that the fabric is rather tight. A scarf is neither a sock nor a mitten and it does not need to be very dense. So I took 4 mm neeldes and it was as simple as that.

Ajaloolised ja mitte-ajaloolised kudumid/Historical and non-historical knits

Pealkiri võib tunduda veider. Postitus on pikk! Traditsioonilised kudumid pole minu eriala. Siiski huvitab mind n-ö konstruktiivne pool: kuidas kudumeid on konstrueeritud ja mis on muutunud (või ei ole). Raamatus on pisut juttu õmblusteta kudumite ajaloost (paljud traditsioonilised sviitrid on õmblusteta). Selle postituse ajendiks on Dagmari postitus blogis ja Ravelrys. Ta on valmis saanud nn Ruhnu sviitri (rosavamsa), tuginedes ajaloolisele mudelile (blogipostituses on originaali pilt olemas).
The title might appear strange. It is a long post! Traditional knitting is not my field. Still I am interested in the constuctive aspect thereof: namely, how knitwear used to be constructed and how constructions have changed (or not). In my book some space is dedicated to the history of seamless knits (many traditional sweaters are seamless). The idea for this post came from Dagmar's entry on her blog and on Ravelry. She has finished a sweater in the spirit of  knitwear tradtion of the Ruhnu island (rosavamsa), baased on the historical model (the photo of the original is on her blog).

Minu arust on pilt väga õnnestunud. Ruhnu vamsad on kootud eraldi tükkidena ja erinevalt teistest meremeeste sviitritest on taljest sisse kootud. Kui seda mitte arvesse võtta, on siluett väga sarnane traditsiooniliste iiri jms kampsunite omaga (inglise keeles võib otsida Aran sweater, fishermens's sweater, gurnsey jms). Nimetatud kampsunid on traditsiooniliselt õmblusteta ja alt üles, erijooneks on kiil kaenla all. Ühes venekeelses allikas leidsin infot ka ülevalt alla kootud iiri sviitri kohta. Kui vene keeles ei loe, saab vaadata pilte. Kahjuks puuduvad viited, oleks huvitav teada, kus niiviisi kooti. Muidugi on hästi palju moodsaid tõlgendusi. Üks hea ülevaade, kuidas kududa traditsiooniline kalamehe sviiter, on siin.
In my opinion the picture has turned out extremely well. Ruhnu vamsa is worked in separate pieces and, differently from other types of traditional fishermen's sweaters, has waist shaping. If we disregared this detail, the shape is very similar to this of traditional Irrish, fishermen's, Aran sweaters. The mentioned sweaters are traditionally worked from bottom to top seamlessly and underarm gusset is their characteristic feature. In a Russian-language source I found information about top-down Irish sweater. If you don't read Russian, the photos help. Unfortunately, there are no references to other sources: it would be instructive to know where this construction was used. Needles to say, there are countless modern interpretations. A good guied how to make a traditional fishermen's sweater is here.

Pildil on hollandikeelse raamatu kaas (Kalameeste sviitrid lastele) (siit). Nüüd milleks kogu jutt? Vaatame Dagmari vamsat lähemalt (pilt tema blogist). Kitsas muster algab õlajoonelt ja läheb alla. See viibki järgmise mõttekäigu juurde.
This is the cover of the Dutch book (Fishermen's sweaters for children) (from here). Why all this story? Let us observe Dagmar's sweater (the picture is from her blog). A narrow pattern starts at the shoulder line and goes down. This brings to the next deliberation.

Minu ripsiga poolpatendis, aga ka muud madala õlajoonega sviitrid on kootud tehniliselt teisiti (ülevalt alla ilma õmblusteta), aga neil on ka see joon. Viimasel ajal meeldib mulle selle konstruktsiooni puhul kududa rohkem silmuseid ripskoes (rea alguses ja lõpus 2-3 s). Kui hiljem kududa otsa varrukad, siis tekib ilus kontrast. Võib olla ka väike palmik, vikkel jms. Küljemusterid olen aga teinud alati. Selle tegumoe puhul ongi loogiline teha esi- ja seljatüki äärel midagi, mis jätkuks ka külgedel. Niisiis, siin on teile ka mitte-ajalooline kudumine!
My half-patent and garter stitch sweaters and also other sweaters with low shoulder line are constructed in a different way (top-down and seamlessly), but they have this feature as well. Recently I have been feeling like knitting more stitches in garter (2-3 sts in the beginning and in the end of the row). When stitches for sleeves are picked up later, you get a nice contrast. You can have a narrow cable, twisted stitches an so on. And I have always made the side pattern. In this construction it is rather logical to make something at the edges of the back and front pieces and then to continue the pattern on the side. So here is non-historical knitting for you!

 

See on lihtne sviiter, tegumood meeldib mulle. Kes tahab, võib teha üleni mustriga Ruhnu või mõnes muus tratitsioonis.
It is a simple sweater and I like the construction. If you want, you can make it all over in a pattern, Ruhnu or any other traditional stitch.